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Airedale Breeders' 
Hand Book 




COPYRIGHTED, 1916 






^GI.A455289 

JAN 251917 (V 




The Author. 



Chapter 
Chapter 
Chapter 
Chapter 
Chapter 
Chapter 
Chapter 
Chapter 
Chapter 
Chapter 10. 
Chapter 1 1 . 
Chapter 12. 
Chapter 13. 
Chapter 14. 
Chapter 15. 
Chapter 16. 



INDEX TO CHAPTERS 

Page 

Origin and Adaptability 9 

Three kinds are being bred 1 5 

Buying 19 

Feeding 23 

The Stud Dog 27 

The Brood Bitch 31 

Right Mating 38 

Raising Puppies 43 

Training 51 

Kenneling 59 

Diseases 65 

Color and Other Points 75 

Showing 7& 

Selling and Shipping 84 

Advertising 88 

Miscellaneous 91 

INDEX TO SUBJECTS IN BACK OF BOOK 



Io JHy Mother 



whose constant aid; unceasing care and interest together with 
advice and encouragement during the years that we have been 
handling and breeding the Airedale; thus making this work 
possible, are these efforts reverent!}' and affectionately dedicated. 

The Author. 



3ntr0burtnru 



This book is written at the suggestion of friends of the author 
and admirers of the Airedale; to meet a demand for information 
of a practical nature; and in such form that it can be had on any 
subject, connected with the Airedale, with as little effort as 
possible. 

In writing, we have endeavored to use every day expressions, 
to be as plain and explicit as possible and to state facts just 
as we have found them after years of experience. In this 
wiriting we have tried to be honest: we have guessed at noth- 
ing, but have tried to touch upon the different subjects as con- 
cisely as possible, and have written without fear or favor. We 
have not intended to injure any one in any way, our years of 
sportsmanship would forbid that, and if what is herein contained, 
will aid any one to avoid the pit-falls that the author has en- 
countered; will assist him in caring for and enjoying man's 
best friend (of any breed); will better acquaint him with the 
most marvelous variety of the canine race that has yet been 
produced; will add in any way to the welfare and improvement, 
of this breed; or add one iota to the bettermnet of the doggy 
game in any particular, then will we feel fully compensated! 
for the effort. 



CHAPTER I. 
ORIGIN AND ADAPTABILITY 

About the middle of the nineteenth century, among a 
sporty class of English, there sprang up a demand for a 
dog that could "do anything that any other dog could 
do and then lick the other dog." To produce such, 
several varieties were used — Collies, Bull Terriers, Irish Water 
Spaniels, Setter, Bedlington Terriers and perhaps other breeds 
No mongrel was used in the make up and there is no cold blood in 
them, as least in their origin. 

When first produced they were called "Waterside Terrier", and 
were used for many purposes, including poaching. When used for 
this purpose it was necessary that they should not make noise and 
this is why some of the ones first brought to America did not give 
tongue when running a trail. 

At this stage of their production a prominent Lord took them 
up, sought to make them more game, a better water dog and to 
improve their nose and hunting quality. 

To do this the Otter Hound was used. A noble fellow this, he 
can handle the oldest of trails, take to the coldest water and kill 
Mr. Otter when he finds him. 

Therefore the chief foundation for the Airedale is the Otter 
Hound, while many other breeds have played a minor part. 

He originated in the valley (dale) of the Ay re River and ob- 
tains his name from that section. 

We are told that in some kennels the Otter Hounds are muz- 
zled at night to prevent fighting. They have very pleasant dispo- 
sitions usually, but when they get started fighting are extremely 
vicious. Many Airedales are very similar to them in this respect. 

Those who first produced Airedales were miners and workmen 
of similar class, whose chief sports were beer drinking, hunting 
various kinds of game, showing and fighting their dogs and them- 
selves. 

To these sporty fellows must be given the credit for making the 
greatest dog — rather breed of dogs — that has yet been produced. 
He is rightly called the "aristocrat of dogdom" and is surely the 
most cosmopolitan of them all. He is at home in guarding the 
parlors of a mansion; escorting mi-lady on the street, for a stroll 



10 THE AIREDALE 

in the country, a horse-back jaunt or in the limousine. As some 
one has said, "he is there all in a bunch". Equally so is he at 
home in the humblest hut and guards his master and his master's 
belongings with the same ardor whether he be fed with the best 
of foods plentifully, or is kept on short rations. Usually they are 
rather light eaters. 

As a companion, guard and protector for children, he has no 
equal and many are the stories that could be told of how he has 
saved and rescued them when in danger by acting quickly with 
superior judgement. A good Airedale can act while the average 
person is thinking. He never tires of entertaining his charges and 
if he has the proper disposition will take all kinds of punishment 
from the child he is protecting, without harming it. We have 
known him to protect the child from its own parerit, when he 
thought the parent was going to do the youngster harm. 

Many Airedales are students of human nature, at a glance can 
tell just what the mental condition of their master is, and many will 
do something to amuse the master when he feels a bit "blue", and 
in fact will drive the "blues" away if it can be done. Jolly dis- 
positions predominate and they are usually ready for a romp or 
play. Among themselves they are the roughest of players and 
apparently try to see how much punishment the other will stand 
without "squealing." The exercise taken in this way, keeps them 
in condition for hunting and other tasks while other breeds would be 
soft. 

As a hunter and fighter of big game he has no equal; and since 
many of the first ones brought to the States were largely used 
for this purpose, many persons think they are only good for the 
one usage. As a matter of fact, if bred right and handled right 
they are equally as good for any other purpose to which a dog of 
the size can adapt himself. 

While many of them have an excellent nose and can locate a 
very old track, they are not so good at trailing as the well trained 
hound. They are too fast and run over the trail. They want the 
game and not its tracks. On warm trail, the writers experience has 
been that they will run away from the hounds. That is if those 
used are of the type that have speed. When the game is overtaken 
it means that it is going to be killed or treed, and in very short 
order. 



THE AIREDALE 11 




Companions. 

On small game they can be fully as valuable. We have had a 
number of them to point quail naturally and their speed and agility 
when after a winged quail is marvelous As a retriever from land 
or water they have no superior. 

They surpass as stock drivers and will not quit when the weather 
is hot and the task hard and hazardous. Out on the poultry ranch 
they are also at home. We have seen them distinguish a strange 
fowl of the same color as their owners' flock. They will stop all 
fights and aid in many ways in handling poultry. Will kill the 
mice and rats that infest the feed house and all skunks and ma- 
rauders are sure to meet death. 

On the ranch; patroling manufacturing plants; as police dogs; in 
the war, carrying messages, hunting and aiding the wounded and 
by their superior scenting and hearing, assisting the sentry, they 
are equally as valuable. Major Richardson, the highest authority 
on war dogs, says an Airedale can hear three hundred yards 
further than the average person. 



12 



THE AIREDALE 




Out with the Sergeant, (Police). 



THE AIREDALE 13 

By his aristocratic bearing a good Airedale will command atten- 
tion and respect anywhere and give distinction to his fortunate 
owner. 

While most of them will meet friendly advances, except under 
conditions that would jeopardize them or their master's interests, 
they recognize but one master at a time and are called "a one man 
dog." 

Superior judgement, self control, intensity of purpose, determi- 
nation, ingenuity, strength and agility are what enables a good 
specimen of the breed to acquire these accomplishments and to be 
of such value to his owner. 

While the writer has had some twenty five years of experience 
in breeding and training dogs of several breeds, our opinion of the 
Airedale, after many years of breeding, showing, hunting and 
otherwise educating them, is summed up in the following words. 
"We would not give a good Airedale for a field full of any other 
variety." And we have no idea of going back to any other breed. 
The Airedale is not a fad, he has not only made good, he has done 
much more. He has shown us. He has done many, many things 
that we never thought a dog could do. He has proven that he can 
more than pay his way if his master will handle him rightly and let 
him have an opportunity to pay for his keep and splendid interest 
on the investment made in his purchase. In fact the Airedale, 
that only a few years ago was seen here and there, in another few 
years will be seen every where; will be much better understood and 
the good ones will be even of greater value to their proud owners . 

Some one has written — and well written — that if all other varie- 
ties were extinct the Airedale would replace each of them. If you, 
Mr. Reader, do not think this is true, get a good one and he will 
"show you." 

By no means do we mean to cast any reflection on any other 
breeds, many good ones there are, but after close intimacy, our 
hat is off to the noblest and truest of them all, the sturdy one from 
Yorkshire. 



14 



THE AIREDALE 




Hy Born Defiance and '•Tom". 

In the above cut is shown the young Airedale Hy-Born Defiance 
and his "pal," the white cat. Two years ago when Mr. F. D. 
Maginnis, So. Dos Palos, Cal., purchased the dog, then a puppy 
of two months, the cat took an interest in him and the puppy slept 
with him for some two months and never seemed to forget the 
kindness shown him. When he became a dog and "Tom" would 
go out o'nights and return the next morning, badly disfigured the 
dog would take him between his paws and thoroughly dress his 
wounds, not quitting till "Tom" was as white and clean as he 
could be gotten. "Tom" soon learned to hunt up his friend, when 
he had been "cut for the evening," and would lie patiently while 
he was being put in condition. 

Hy-Born Defiance was recently killed by a train and the loss was 
very keenly felt, as he had many other accomplishments. 



CHAPTER II. 

THREE KINDS ARE BEING BRED 

Through his love for work, his wonderful achievements and other 
noble traits, the Airedale has reached his present popularity. It 
is character that has made him the most popular at most of the 
present day shows, and not the prizes that he has won. 

The Show Type 

This is the class that represents large investments, brings long 
prices and great pleasure when you succeed in getting a "topper." 
Notwithstanding we frequently have persons say they have a 
perfect Airedale, as a matter of fact the perfect one has not yet 
been bred and may never be produced. The person who is able 
to furnish one very close to the standard has a snug little fortune 
in sight. One that so closely approaches the standard as to be able 
to defeat all others, and that has good strong blood lines, is worth 
well into the thousands. 

There are two ways of owning these. The shorter way is to 
buy them, if one's purse is of sufficient length. This does not mean 
that you will be able to reproduce what you have bought. There 
are many persons in the business who gain a great deal of distinc- 
tion and no little pleasure in this way. 

There are others who do not know what to do with them after 
they have gotten hold of them and the dogs soon begin to "go down 
hill" and the owner becomes discouraged and some shrewd doggy 
fellow comes along and gets a bargain. 

The longer route to obtain a "topper" is to breed it. This takes 
time, knowledge, thought, judgement, often the ability to with- 
stand disappointment, and perseverence. Sometimes it takes 
more of all these. 

What is your reward? First comes the pleasure from an inti- 
mate association with its ancestors, together with the enjoyment 
of their fidelity and affection. A great deal of recreation is had 
from handling and working them and very much more, if you are 
a sportsman. Then comes the mating, that you have given so 
much thought, th care of the matron for the next two months. 
Then one morning you hear some crying in the kennel and you go 



16 THE AIREDALE 

out and look the youngster over and probably decide that they 
look good. Then comes the pleasure of growing them properly 
and lastly learn what you have. If your judgement has been good 
and proper care and attention has been given you are sure to 
have something of value, though you may not always get "flyers." 
When a real "flyer" does come your way, you have gained dis- 
tinction and reputation that come in no other way. Certainly the 
pleasure is very great or you would not have undertaken the task. 
It appears to be the general rule, of those who aim to breed this 
type, to study the blood lines that "nick" and mate so as to correct 
faults in the individuals to be mated, disregarding utility features. 
Others send their bitches to the dog that has done a lot of winning 
and is before the public at the time. This is all folly. Another 
chapter will deal more carefully on this subject. 

The Show avd Utility Type 

The Airedale is a worker, that is what he was made for. He 
should have brains, that is what has made him. If he is bred 
purely for show points and is kept in a kennel and used only for 
show purposes, without regard to his other qualities, can he retain 
the reputation he now possesses? He should have quality — and 
then more quality — but the writer is most firmly of the opinion 
that the true Airedale should possess quality and utility proper- 
ties to the highest degree. 

When one undertakes to breed the all 'round good Airedale, he 
finds it a job of more than a day or week. That is, unless he is 
fortunate in securing his breeders from one who made a seccess 
along these lines, and who is entirely honest with his clientile. 
By all 'round good one, we mean one perfect in disposition, in 
gameness, intelligence, in Terrier Quality and better in show points 
than most of them. Eliminate the first four qualities and the 
task would be much easier, but in our opinion they would not be 
Airedales. 

True you may not be able to reap honor in the show ring as 
quickly, but when you breed along these lines, you are producing 
something there is and will always be a demand for. And if you 
do not always get a flyer or two from each litter, you will get some- 
thing that will give you pleasure and entertainment, by his wonder- 
ful accomp ishments, and when a topper is produced along these 
lines, one has succeeded much beyond he who has bred for show 



THE AIREDALE 



17 



points only. The demand is constantly increasing for Airedales 
with working ability and one need not lose money i 1 his efforts to 
produce the worker with quality, even though he does not have the 
occasional high priced showman for sale. Other chapters will 
deal fully with this subject. 




A Haphazard 

The Haphazard Type 

Airedales of this type just-happened-so. They are produced in 
several ways, Some fellow wants to own "an Airedale." He 
finds some other fellow who has a bitch that should have been 
consigned to the bucket at birth, and who informs him that he has 
a very fine young bitch that he will sell him for five or ten dollars 
and immediately the first mentioned fellow is the proud possessor 
of "an Airedale." When time comes for mating her he goes around 



18 THE AIREDALE 

and finds some dog that he can breed to for nothing, neither owner 
knowing anything about a proper mating, and in a short time 
there is "a fine (?) litter of Airedales for sale." Some go even 
farther than this. We know of an instance where a breeder with 
a reputation wanted some new blood in his kennels. He pur- 
chased a well bred bitch, had her mated to a dog of proper blood 
lines and shipped to him. He was not pleased with the bitch, she 
did not come up to his standard, yet he hunted her and used every 
means to have the puppies what he would like. They were un- 
satisfactory and the bredeer sold the best of them for workers and 
without pedigree and at very reasonable prices. In due time two 
bitches were bred to one of the dog puppies. Both of the owners 
endeavoring to avoid paying stud fees. One of these bitches had 
a bunch of puppies that were sold as being of the strain of the 
breeder of reputation, the lot from the second bitch were destroyed 
because they were black and tan. Neither the owner of the sire 
or dam having sufficient knowledge of breeding to know what 
should be the color at birth. Others of this class are produced 
by some kennel owners who breed from convenience, irrespective 
of the important qualities of sire or dam. 

In writing on this subject we are not trying to cast any reflections 
on any person or persons, simply endeavoring to tell facts as we 
see them, others are fully as entitled to their respective views. 
However in writing a book, if the author has no views and ideas 
to express, what is the value of the book ? 



CHAPTER III. 
BUYING 

The first consideration for any buyer is what he wants. That is, 
he should have an object — a purpose — and not buy for the mere 
purpose of being the owner of an "Airedale." 

It is usually more satisfactory to both buyer and seller for the 
buyer to personally select the dog, however this is not always 
convenient. Even the beginner can make the selection that su ts 
him, by visiting the kennel of a reliable breeder, and will also 
learn something by the call. If he is not advised he should take 
into his confidence a friend and get his aid in making a selection of 
either the dog or the breeder from whom to buy. In doing this, 
it should be borne in mind that not infrequently his friend may have 




Model of an Airedale intended to represent an ideai 
show specimen that many are now trying for 



20 THE AIREDALE 

an axe to grind himself, in the way of a commission, or similar 
interest. This also holds good in having parties look the new 
purchase over. Buying at a show is not to be advised. It should 
also be in mind that even an experienced breeder may be mistaken 
in dogs with which he is not familiar and would only discover 
faults or some good qualities after a more familiar acquaintance. 

We clip the following from a recent issue of the Field and Fancy. 
"It is not safe to buy "bargains" in dogs or to assume that the 
breeder does not know the worth of his stock — mostly, he over 
rather than under rates it. The more remarkable the apparent 
bargain the more dubious it becomes, for perfection is not compati- 
ble with cheapness; and "cheap" dogs- very often have nothing but 
their cheapness to recommend them. The dog which, though of 
markedly superior appearance, is offered at a very low price pro- 
bably fails in breeding value, or has some serious constitutional 
defect that time alone will show. Really good and well bred dogs 
are always scarce; and to get a good dog one must ordinarily pay 
a good price — the better the dog the higher the price, as a general 
rule. Purchasers should not expect too much; and, if desirous 
of getting the best stock, must not, when dealing with a reputable 
breeder, try to beat him down too much in price. Nor is it reason- 
able to ask such a person to send valuable young puppies on ap- 
proval, as, if refused, the double railway journey may upset them 
seriously. If you can not trust his word, it is wiser not to do 
business with him at all. Better pay a little more and buy guaran- 
teed stock from an experienced breeder with a character to lose." 

Sometimes a reputable breeder may have reason for offering 
something for less than the usual value he places on them. Also 
a breeder who is familiar with a number of the ancestors, can have 
a better idea of what a puppy will probably become, than can 
any other person. So, after all it narrows down to the reputable 
breeder and his knowledge of his stock. 

If you wished to buy a cow, you would decide between the 
varieties that are noted for the purpose for which the cow is wanted. 
If a trotter is wanted you would not buy a colt that was bred 
from saddlers. One cow may give a carload of milk during the 
year, and be worth many thousands of dollars. Another of the 
same variety may be bought for fifty dollras — and not be a bargain 
at that. The same is true in Airedales. 



THE AIREDALE 21 

Another point to be taken in consideration in making a purchase, 
is the assistance and knowledge that the seller may be able and 
willing to give you. A desirable breeder will usually go to the 
trouble of writing the purchaser — especially if he is a beginner — 
many little things about the dog purchased, and the breed in 
general, that in itself, will be worth as much as the price paid for 
the dog. 

We would advise only the experienced to try to import and cnly 
then from those known to be reliable. 

Do not be discouraged if your first purchase does not come up to 
your requirements, try again. 

The Airedale has the reputation of recognizing only one owner 
at a time, for this reason it is best that the new owner should re- 
move the new arrival from the shipping crate and be the first 
new acquanintance. If he is made of the right stuff he is looking 
for a master and pal, as soon as he is taken out of the crate. 

A puppy should first be given a little water — not too much cold 
water, to chill him, then a little soup or light food. After a little 
exercise, more food. 

The removing from crate should be done as quietly as possible. 
First, speak to him in a friendly, quiet way, calling his name; then 
caress him a little and gradually get 01 good terms with him. He 
should be taken from the crate, in an enclosure of some kind, where 
he will not be able to escape. It might be that he has been badly 
mistreated on his journey and is still frightened from this, and 
will try to escape. Let him attend to the call of nature first, get 
a little exercise and probably he will come to you without being 
called. If he is frightened go easy with him until he comes to him- 
self. Give him a warm, comfortable place to sleep and a few days 
to get over the effects of being caged up. It is not advisable to 
wash a dog, especially a puppy, on arrival, if his coat is foul, dust 
fullers earth into it thoroughly and brush it out. If his feet are 
tender, the bottoms may be bathed and a little Condy's fluid, 
vaseline or something similar applied. Don't rush him out to show 
to your friends, you will have plenty of time for this after he has 
gotten over the trip. 

If the dog, on arrival, is not what you want, receive him and 
promptly advise the shipper. Do not leave him crated up and 
with the transportation company. This is a great injury to the 
dog, is inhumane and nothing can be gained by it. 



22 THE AIREDALE 

We might add, that it is customary for the purchaser to remit 
the amount in bank exchange, or equivalent with his order. The 
breeder must go to the trouble and expense of shipping and usually 
stands the risk of having the dog arrive in good condition. He 
should not be asked to ship C. 0. D. and probably will not do so. 
Nor should he be asked to ship on a personal check, unless the 
buyer is well known to the seller. If the sum involved is a large 
one, the buyer can possibly arrange to have the amount deposited 
in a bank, to be paid to the seller, upon arrival and acceptance of 
the dog. If dog is not accepted, the money to be returned to 
the buyer, less expressage both ways. 

Or, if the buyer is at all afraid to risk this sum with the seller, 
and is fully convinced that the seller will send the dog as repre- 
sented, then he can ask the seller to give him the privilege of writing 
the seller's banker, or other reference. 

Usually neither of these ways are necessary. The best way is to 
select your breeder, tell what you want and what purpose you 
wish the dog for, agree on the price, send the order and enclose a 
draft. Should any difference arise, it can then be taken up with 
the seller. 

In all cases, unless there is a special agreement, the dog becomes 
the property of the buyer when he is delivered to the transporta- 
tion company, the latter is acting as common carrier for the buyer, 
and is responsible to him for safe delivery. 

This chapter would not be complete without mention of what 
sex to buy in the event that the person wishes only one dog. If 
the writer was going to reduce his kennel to one dog, that would be 
.a bitch. We have heard the most prominent dog men in the 
world express themselves in similar language. The failure of the 
average owner of a bitch of any kind, to take the proper care of 
her, when in usage, is mostly the cause of so many persons want- 
ing only dogs. A bitch will do any kind of work that a dog will. 
She is more easily taught, has less things to divert her attention, 
is much nicer to take out on the street or elsewhere and twenty- 
five dollars will generally buy more quality in a bitch puppy, than 
in a dog puppy. Our chapter on the brood bitch tells how to 
handle and care for them. Some breeders, the writer among them, 
will not sell their best bitch puppies, that are bred to suit them, 
till they have one or more litters from them; or they have proven 
to be not what they expected. 



CHAPTER IV. 
FEEDING 

Airedales with whom the writer has been familiar are light 
eaters. Where only one or two are to be fed it is an easy task, if 
one has table scraps. They will do nicely on these, fed two or 
three times a day. Sugar in any form should be avoided. It 
upsets the digestion and some consider it poison to any dog. No 
dog can digest chicken bones and we have known death to result 
from feeding them in quantities. Some authorities advise feeding 
potatoes and others say avoid them. 

Where a dog is graudally taught to eat most anything, he can 
do so and apparently thrive on all kinds of food. This can not be 
done by an abrupt change. 

We do not believe in making a toy out of an Airedale and trying 
to be too careful in feeding. Don't treat him like he was a little 
better than a human being, (though he is much better than many 
of them,) but like a real good dog, and see that he keeps a dog's 
place. 

As the subject of feeding puppies is fully covered in another 
chapter, we will here assume that the dog to be fed is six months 
or so of age. 

While the feeding of one or two dogs is of little moment, the 
feeding of a kennel becomes quite an item and must be figured 
closely or a decided drain will take place. 

From the point of economy, health, condition and convenience, 
we have found the following most satisfactory. 

Let the dogs have some exercise late in the afternoon, the more 
the better, and feed as late as convenient in the evening, their 
principal meal. 

We secure meat scraps from the butchers, bones included, place 
them in the cooking vessel, add sufficient salt and a little red pepper 
and occasionally a piece of garlic. Over this place enough water 
to cover and when well cooked sufficient water is added to make 
the desired quantity of broth. Occasionally some vegetables 
are added and cooked with the meat. Also once or twice a week 
some raw beef is fed, after the regular meal. Different individuals 
must be fed differently. Make the food suit the dog and not the 
dog to suit the food. Each should be fed what he will consume in a 



24 THE AIREDALE 

few moments. Some times they will eat only a small quantity 
and finish up a few minutes later, but what is left uneaten should 
be removed from the kennel after 30 minutes. As an exemplary 
meal, take one pint of bran, one-third pint cf middlings and one- 
half pint of rolled oats. Place these in the feed pan and pour a 
sufficient quantity of the broth over them to moisten — do not 
make it sloppy — but so that it will crumble or stand up. Add 
to this such quantity of the cooked meat and bones as each indi- 
vidual needs. 

The rolled oats used are the ordinary table oats and are bought 
in 90 pound sacks. They are steamed in process of manufacture 
and need no additional cooking. The bran and midds are also fed 
without any cooking. 

The quantity of each used is adjusted to suit each dog, feeding 
what they will clean up. If the dog is thin in flesh or one that 
requires stronger food, the meat and rolled oats are increased. 
If he is a hearty eater and in good flesh, the bran is increased and 
other foods diminished. This will satisfy his appetite without 
increasing flesh. Stronger food should be given in cold weather 
than in warm. Some meat is desirable at all times, but less in 
summer. 

In the morning the dogs are turned in the exercising yards while 
their kennels are being cleaned and are allowed to take some exer- 
cise. Sometimes they are given a run. The morning meal is a 
much lighter one. This one is made to vary quite a bit. Bread 
is sometimes cooked of bran, midds and corn meal, seasoned with 
salt and some grease from the fat meat scraps. The bread is 
sometimes fed dry, again is partly broken and broth put over it. 
Again we feed the ordinary dog biscuit, either dry or moistened. 
At times a pan of broth alone is given. Butter-milk is obtained 
occasionally and given alone. It is a good liver regulator. At 
times some will enjoy a dish of dry rolled oats, or oats with a little 
bran mixed. Some will eat quite a quantity of dry bran. It is a 
fine cleanser and will do no injury. 

Frequently it is best to leave the meat out of the food and thirty 
minutes later feed the meat. This causes them to eat the other 
food. 

Hot foods must be avoided, but slightly warmed in winter is an 
advantage in providing heat. A dog's mouth is much more easily 
burned than a human. 



THE AIREDALE 25 

The dogs nature has been much changed by his association with 
man and his food should be somewhat similar, yet, there is still 
quite a bit of the wild left in him and this must be catered to. 

If the scraps are a bit old, or the broth has soured some, there 
will be no harm come from its use, provided each has been kept 
in receptacles that will not generate poison. We would advise 
against feeding soured soup to a bitch in whelp. Bones are splen- 
did, they improve the digestion, increase the jaw power and enable 
kenneled dogs to while away much time. Bones should not be 
left either in the kennels after the dogs are through with them, 
nor in the exercise yard at any time. Fights will result over a 
bone more quickly than from most any other cause. If bread 
from white flour is fed in any quantity, bran should be fed with it 
to avoid constipation. 

If a dog is in good flesh and does not eat, let him miss a meal or 
two. In other cases, after he has gone a day or more without 
eating, or it is seen that the stomach is off, it is well to give a tablet 
of charcoal, bismuth and pepsin, three times a day. A good sub- 
stitute for these, and a very good thing to give all of them at 
times, is a condition powder made at home. Select a pint of wood 
ashes and the charcoal that is in them. Rub this through a seive, 
a teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of sulphur and two ounces of 
powdered copperas. All should be put through the seive and fully 
mixed. Give about a teaspoonful once or twice a day in the food. 
For the benefit of the coat, some give a teaspoonful of sulphur in 
food once each week. This is also a tonic, and when given in large 
quantities we have seen it remove worms after many other things 
have failed. No harm will come from it. If a dog is to be fattened, 
it is well to feed him frequently and not too much at a time. Give 
freely of rolled oats and meat, both cooked and raw. A dog bis- 
cuit between meals, or something that appeals to him. 

They should have a sufficient quantity of fresh water and the 
water and feed vessels should be regularly washed and kept clean. 
When dogs are being worked the food should be much stronger 
than when they are idle. 

Dogs should not be fed from the table when one is eating, it is 
not the proper place for them. 

If dogs are fed along the lines indicated herein, there will be no 
trouble from worms. We have taken new dogs into our kennels, 
Jed them in this way and have gotten them rid of worms without 



2 6 THE AIREDALE 

the use of any drugs. It will not always rid a dog of tapeworms, 
but it will make things very disagreeable for the tape and rid the 
dog of large portions of it. If one discovers that a dog is infested 
with worms, a small quantity of red pepper should be sprinkled on 
the food, after it is prepared in the plate and ready to feed. Pepper 
should not be given to young puppies. 

When one is on a camp hunt, food for the dog sometimes becomes 
quite an item. When a dog is hunting he can digest most anything. 
Rolled barley, (horse feed) whole corn and the carcases of wild 
animals, that they ordinarily would not eat, can be used. The 
meat should be cooked and seasoned. 



CHAPTER V. 
THE STUD DOG 

The conditions are so varied, as to what one might want informa- 
tion concerning a stud dog, one scarcely knows what to say on this 
subject. 

If one is going to buy a stud the chapter on buying should be 
of value to him. If he has bitches to mate with him, the blood- 
lines and defects of the bitches should be taken into consideration. 
Of course, get a dog that should correct the defects in the bitches 
as far as you are able. And the blood lines for either out-crossing 
or line breeding as you may like. Read chapter on matings. 

The number of really good stud dogs, by this we mean real sires, 
is very small. Mr. William Haynes figures that so far there have 
been some sixteen great ones. To read the kennel papers one might 
conclude there were multitudes of them. 

Whether he is bought or the bitch is sent to him, he should be a 
good one. This goes without saying. He should have a strong 
pedigree and personally we like to see a champion bitch appear in 
this pedigree within three generations. There have been a number 
of extra good bitches that have not become champions and we 
have seen these crop out to the fourth and fifth generation repeat- 
edly. 

He should be a quiet, game Terrier. Should be well controlled 
and kept so in a way that will not ruin his disposition. Please get 
that, control him, but don't ruin his disposition. Give him exer- 
cise and care that will make him think he is your pal. If he gets 
wrong when you have bitches that are in use, make him mind, but 
with as little whipping as possible and keep the bitch as far away 
from him as convenient and out of his sight. Place her in a room 
on the second floor of a building, for it appears that the dog can 
not get scent of her very well then. Put in shipping crate, if no 
other place for her. 

If the stud is made of the right stuff he is going to be boss of all 
the other dogs and his master also, if the master will permit it. 
Y oung dogs that are coming on should be kept away from him at 
all times. If he decides they are getting too important he will 
take some of it out of them sometime. This does his disposition 
no benefit and may seriously damage the young fellow and cause 



28 THE AIREDALE 

him to lose his courage. Puppies should also be kept from him, 
he may tire of their caresses and cut them very badly. 

There can be no set rule, for what works in handling one dog 
may be a failure in another case. If a man expects to make a 
success in the dog game without using his brains, he had better 
quit the game early. It requires brains and work to produce good 
ones and the same ingredients to handle them. We do not believe 
in severely punishing a dog, if it can be avoided. In one case it 
may make the dog and in two other cases it may ruin him. We do 
not recall having soundly whipped but one stud dog, of the several 
we have owned. He was Champion Clonmel Rough and Ready. 
When we got him he was reported to have killed five dogs and 
after being with us for a short time he was turned into a yard where 
a kettle of beef scraps were cooking and a seven months old dog 
had assumed the task of watching them and objected to "Ready" 
getting too close to them. "Ready" promptly went for the young- 
ster's throat. He was pulled off and given a little cuff. Instantly 
he was after him again. This time we took him by the back of the 
neck and gave him a severe shaking. This only made him the 
more determined and when the most convenient club was used on 
him, he turned on us. The young dog was locked in a kennel, a 
good chain and collar was placed on "Ready" in a very few seconds 
and a hitch was taken around a post. Then a sound thrashing was 
administered with a piece of rubber garden hose. We were the 
best of friends after that and while he hever had a chance at another 
young dog, we have seen puppies worry him on many occasions 
without being harmed. He possessed terrier quality that it was 
necessary to control. He spent several months at the San Fran- 
cisco Exposition in 1915 with several of our other dogs and on 
the writer's last visit to him, shortly before his death, he was 
looking better than we had ever seen him, yet he was so affec- 
tionate, and seemed to beg to be taken away, or to go with us, in 
such a way that we will never be able to forget the incident. 

This little story has never been told before and is not written 
in a boastful way, but as an illustration in handling and the fidel- 
ity of a good Airedale. By his acts he plainly said that he thought 
more of us than the many handlers he had had and wished to go 
home again. A noble fellow he was, peace to his ashes! 

The stud dog should be kept in good strong flesh, but not fat. 
Should have plenty of exercise to keep him hard and at least his 



THE AIREDALE 29 

head and neck should be kept fairly well stripped. He should be 
regularly groomed each day and kept in a perfectly good kennel. 
Frequently if a bitch is placed in the kennel with him, particu- 
larly at night after he has eaten his food, it will make him more 
quiet. 

When he is fretting over a bitch it is much more difficult to 
properly feed him and sometimes about the best one can do is to 
get him to eat a small quantity of the strongest foods. 

If he is a young dog he should have some training of some kind, 
the more the better. 

If he is to be used for show purposes, large bones should be kept 
from him, for he will wear his teeth off too soon. 

He must be kept free from worms or bitches sent to him will 
miss. 

As to the age at which a stud should begin his duties, there are 
many views. We know of some that have gotten some of their 
best puppies when they were ten months to a year old. Others 
will not use them until they are well past a year old. Many agree 
that he is best at two or three years of age and that he will then 
sire stronger puppies than when younger. However the bitch may 
have much to do with it, and her management while in whelp has 
much to do with the kind of puppies that are produced. The 
English have the world bested when it comes to breeding dogs and 
they usually do not use a dog for stud pruposes until he is pretty 
well made up and that is generally from eighteen months to two 
years. If he has been well brought along and is a good vigorous 
fellow, we think it well to have him serve a bitch when from ten 
months to one year old. It will improve him in many ways. He 
will have more "p e P" and leave off his puppy ways. We do not 
think it advisable to keep it up when begun at this young age. In 
some cases it is well to have him serve a bitch at this age, if it is 
only a mongrel. 

Except he be a very fine specimen, his pedigree is more valuable 
than the dog himself, for the pedigree will most likely do the pro- 
ducing and not the individual dog. 

The management of the dog has very much to do with his quality 
and the results he attains in the stud. A dog that has beaten the 
best of them and then placed in the hands of one who knows not 
or cares not, what to do with him, lets him become affected with 



30 



THE AIREDALE 



worms and otherwise out of condition, will be defeated by very 
ordinary dogs and fail in the stud. 

Continuous showing will sometimes impair fertility but not 
necessarily affect the quality of the offspring. 

There is a tendency on the part of many to have the owner of 
the stud take a puppy or puppies for services. As to one doing this, 
it is purely a matter of business and for he alone to decide. 

As to refusing inferior bitches, this is also a matter for the owner 
of the stud to decide. The class of bitches served have a most 
important bearing in the matter of judging the quality of the get of 
the dog. 




Ch. Clonmel Rough & Ready 



CHAPTER VI. 
THE BROOD BITCH 

The selection of the brood bitch is governed by very many 
things. So varied are these it is impossible to say anything that 
would fit all instances. 

The writer figures that the bitch, if she be a good one, is from 
sixty to ninety per cent of the mating, depending upon the indi- 
vidual character and pedigree of the bitch. By this we mean that 
a bitch of strong individuality and strong breeding, will have mu:h 
more to do with what is produced from the mating, than will any 
sire, no difference how great may be his reputation as a sire. Good 
bitches are absolutely necessary to the production of gDod ones, 
no matter whether they be for show, or utility purposes of any 
nature. 

If we were to undertake to describe a perfect brood bitch, she 
would be of fair size, a champion or at least one that had done 
some winning in good company, by a dog th it had produced some- 
thing of note and out of a bitch that was good, and having a pedi- 
gree full of good ones. The more good bitches the better. We 
would want her to be a terrier, game, true, exceedingly intelligent, 
a worker and companion. 

Some contend that large bitches do not throw good ones. We 
have not found this to be true. At the present time the tendency 
is to produce big ones that are good, some good judges contending 
that it is more difficult to produce a good big one than a good small 
one. If they are to be made larger, then in our opinion the size 
must come mostly from the dam. However, if they are to retain 
the terrier quality, this must be largely present in the bitch. 
Many large bitches do not possess this, which fact no doubt, causes 
many to conclude that a large bitch can not throw good ones. 
She will not, unless she has the qualities above described. Feed 
and care has much to do with what the puppies will be, but it is 
not always possible to grow puppies from the smaller bitches, as 
large as some want them today. A bitch may be under size from 
bad rearing and yet be from large parents. In such cases she 
can be expected to throw at least some that will make into speci- 
mens of good size. However if many small ones are known to be 
in her pedigree, she can not be expected to get them up to size, 



32 THE AIREDALE 

even though she be mated with a large dog and one that has sired 
large ones. 

A good bitch of medium size, possessing lots of "nerve force/' 
she out of a good, large one should be an ideal to produce the kind 
preferred today. 

As the dam is most likely to largely govern the color and coat of 
her puppies, no little attention should be paid to her selection as 
to these points. 

She should be educated by hunting or other accomplishments. 
This will aid materially in the working qualities of her offspring 
and will add materially to their utility qualities. r 

After the selection comes the care of "madame." She should be 
given sufficient exercise to keep her in condition and such food as 
will keep her in good flesh, but not fat. If too fat she may miss 
when mated. She must be kept free of worms, for the same reason. 

Airedale bitches usually come in use at from nine to fifteen 
months of age, more frequently around one year old. By many it 
is thought best to breed her the first time in, it developes her and 
bring her to maturity more quickly. If she comes in rather early, 
and is on the small size, one should use judgment as to breeding 
her. Frequently to breed the first time and let her pass the second 
time without breeding will grow her out better than if she were 
allowed to pass the first time. Breeding them when young does 
not seem to affect the quality of the puppies but continuous breed- 
ing of bitches that come in frequently, will injure the puppies. 
When a bitch is not mated at time of use she will usually come 
'round again in four to eight months. If she is bred and raises a 
litter, she may be expected to be ready in from six to twelve months. 
Usually from six to eight months. We have heard of cases where 
they have raised three large litters in a year. It is absurd that 
quality ones can be thus produced. Some parties interested hold 
this out to prospective buyers to convince them of large profits in 
the breeding game. In a kennel of several bitches it is usually 
safe to figure on about one and one-half litters per bitch per year. 
From many causes some will miss occasionally and some young 
fractious bitch may lose her puppies by worrying and fretting the 
first few days after they are born. If a bitch contracts distemper 
at about the time she is bred, she is almost sure not to whelp. 

Before the bitch is ready one will of course figure on the doj 



THE AIREDALE 33 

she is to be mated to. This is covered in our chapter on right 
matings. 

As a rule she will menstrate for nine to eleven days before she 
is ready for service, however each individual will have her own 
peculiarities. Some will have luchorhea for several days before 
menstrating. We knew of one case where the bitch menstrated 
only about five days and if she was not bred at once, she would go 
out within twenty-four hours and have nothing to do with the dog. 
This is very rare. Most of them are ready in ten to twelve days 
after first signs of menstration. To be on the safe side they should 
be securely kenneled after the first three days. By securely 
kenneled, we mean they should be placed where they can not pos- 
sibly stray off, by breaking out, digging out, climbing over their 
enclosure or unfastening the door or gate to the enclosure. The 
same precautions should be taken that no dog gets to them in the 
same ways as just described. 

Some contend that a bitch that has "caught" will go out very 
quickly after being mated. This we think depends very much on 
the peculiarity of the individual. We do think they will go out 
more quickly when the mating has been a success than when no 
mating was had or it has been a failure. 

There are many ideas about breeding to control the sex, but we 
think very little of the most of them. If there is anything in any 
of them, it is that of breeding late in the period to get the more 
males. It may be that nature has provided in this way to evenly 
distribute the two sexes. That in the wild state and males were 
plentiful, thus causing the mating as soon as the female would 
accept it, thus producing more females. On the contrary, if males 
were scarce and the female was required to travel for days before 
her scent was picked up by a male, this causing the mating to take 
place late in her period, then males would predominate, to make 
up the shortage of males. Whether this is true or not, most breed- 
ers follow the rule to mate as late in the period as is considered 
safe. Endeavoring to mate along this line we have had both 
sexes to predominate. In one instance we had a litter of nine 
males and no female. 

Litters usually consist of from six to fourteen puppies. 

As to one or two services, that is a matter for the owner to decide. 
If the bitch has not been mated before, we think two services are 
better, with one day intervening. Same should be true in breed- 



34 THE AIREDALE 

ing to a dog his first service. Also the condition of the flesh of 
both dog and bitch should be taken into consideration. If either 
are fat, or are known not to be at all times "sure," then two matings 
should be had. If both are sure and the bitch is inclined to have 
large litters, the writer uses only one service. 

After one is absolutely sure that it is safe to have her out, after 
being bred, the bitch should have her usual exercises and it is 
better to work her, of course keeping her in good flesh. She should 
be made a "pal" of as much as possible and to do as many things as 
are convenient, that are useful to her owner. This will aid in 
producing health and useful puppies with the correct dispositions. 

After about four weeks she should be given the best of foods 
only and the last two or three weeks should be fed on the strongest 
of foods four to six times per day. Large quantities should be 
avoided at this time and no useless substances should be given. 
If she is going to produce a large litter and is fed in large quantities 
during the last few days, pressure will kill some of the puppies 
and even greater trouble may arise at the time of birth, from 
some being dead. 

The day before whelping she will probably refuse all food and 
may occupy herself in preparing a nest. 

After she begins to show in whelp, which will be in about five 
weeks a teaspoonful of Calcium Phosphate should be given in her 
food each night and morning and continued till the puppies are 
weaned. This is to aid to producing large bone in puppies and 
also in keeping her milk sweet when nursing. 

If she has been properly fed on only the best and most nourishing 
foods her bowels will be quite lax. If otherwise, she should be 
given a laxitave just before due to whelp. Much better to avoid 
this by proper feeding. 

She should be entirely free from fleas before the puppies are due 
and the bed such that it will remain free of them for at least some 
time. She can not be treated for them while she is nursing young 
puppies and the puppies can not be treated for them until several 
weeks old. 

The period of gestation is from fifty-eight to sixty-five days, 
commonly called nine weeks. If every thing goes well the puppies 
can usually be expected in about sixty to sixty one days. 

It is best that she be kept away from dogs that will jump on her 
to play or otherwise annoy her, for three weeks before whelping. 



THE AIREDALE 35 

At this time she is placed in her whelping quarters, which should 
be roomy and well aired, but somewhat quiet and the house so 
arranged that she cannot be seen by other dogs while whelping. 
The floor may be a temporary one of wood, to be removed a few 
days before time. The ground floor should not be in the least 
foul nor dusty, yet should not be wet, especially if weather is cool 
or cold. When it is seen that she is in pain she should be left 
entirely alone, except that fresh water should be kept near by. 
She will dig out a bowl shaped nest in the ground about the size of 
a large dish-pan and it may be four to ten hours after the ftrst one 
is born till the litter is complete and during this time she should 
not be disturbed at all. If all does not go well, she will let it be 
known and if all goes well she will be too busy dressing her new 
family to care for any visitors around. 

After the puppies are all dried off, it is well to go in and look 
them over and if any are dead they should be removed, otherwise 
let them alone till twenty-four to forty-eight hours old. At this 
time they may be carefully looked over and if too many and no 
foster mother is available, the surplus should be destroyed. 

When feeding the mother before and after the puppies come, it 
should be borne in mind that you are not feeding one dog, but 
many and that one stomach must do all the digesting for the lot. 
This also must be kept in mind and largely govern the number that 
are kept with the mother. Many persons want large litters and 
try to raise them all. Some well known breeders who have made 
a success have a rigid rule of never leaving more than six with the 
mother. The policy of the writer for some years, has been to be 
governed by the appearance of the litter, their breeding and the 
condition and prospects of the mother as a feeder. 

If the litter is largely composed of females and not from a most 
excellent bitch, we have reduced the litter to four. If it is the first 
litter of a young bitch that is on the small side and not any too 
promising as a milker, we would not leave more than six. If she 
is known to be a good mother, of good size and in splendid con- 
dition, and we feel that we will be able give her extra attention, 
also, if her puppies are especially desirable, we leave as many as 
eight. 

Airedale bitches usually are the best of mothers and frequently 
will take puppies not their own, if at all in condition to nurse them. 
Sometimes a bitch that was bred about the same time as the mother 



36 



THE AIREDALE 



and for some reason has missed, will gladly adopt the puppies and 
quickly come to her milk and fully provide for them. Nothing 
but a good healthy bitch of any breed should be used as a foster 
mother and the puppies taken from the mother should always 
be left with her till they have gotten some of her first milk. This 
is a laxative and starts their little internal machinery to working 
properly. 




Feeding time. Litter by Ch. Midland Royal 

Before the litter is born we make a frame about 2^ x 3 feet, 
from 1 x 4 lumber and on one side of this frame is tacked most 
securely a gunny sack that has been ripped open and not too tightly 
stretched over the frame. When several hours old, we take the 
puppies from their bed of nature, slightly fill up the nest and place 
this frame over it with the cloth down. If properly made the 
cloth will drop down into the nest and the four inch wall will pre- 
vent the puppies getting away from their mother. They are 
able to crawl over this cloth and the nest will cause them to roll 
back and remain near the mother, in the event they are too much 



THE AIREDALE 37 

of a rambling nature. These frames are changed daily and the 
hose is turned on the soiled ones and they are left in the sun till 
needed. 

When the mother first manifests a desire for food it is given in 
limited quantity and very gradually increased. If any indica- 
tions of indigestion are shown — and they are very likely to appear 
during the first few days — she is given a tablet of charcoal, bismuth 
and pepsin three times each day for two or three days. 

As the mother 'rounds to, her food is gradually increased and 
she is allowed out of her kennel for a short time. Also when the 
puppies are several weeks old and able to follow her up, a shelf 
should be provided for her to get up on, to avoid the youngsters 
constantly annoying her. She should have a little exercise and 
some little attention paid her, such as a slight brushing, taking 
into the residence for a short time, or "any old thing" for a diver- 
sion. Having a bunch of husky youngsters always working on her 
gets quite monotonous and she may get tired and not want them 
to nurse to the age that is best for them. 

Nursing bitches should be fed quite freely on raw lean meat, if 
ground it is much more easily digested. 



CHAPTER VII 
RIGHT MATINGS 

No difference how carefully correct may be the mating, unless 
the offspring therefrom be properly raised, the result will be dis- 
appointing. Also no matter how much may be written from 
experience, there will be many who will have their own ideas as to 
breeding what is desired by them; while others will be guided by 
conditions that surround them rather than by proper thought and 
desire. Still others will "trust to luck." 

First we might say, that only healthy specimens should be 
mated. Yet once in a great while it is the making of a bitch to 
let her produce a litter. 

One, of course, should fully decide what he wishes to produce. 
If he is after exhibition stock the mating should be made from 
stock or strains that have a reputation for having produced win- 
ning stock. It is frequently better to breed to the sire that has 
produced a famous show specimen than to breed to the said 
famous one. He may not possess the prepotency of his sire. And 
by the way, this same prepotency has the faculty of cropping out 
in most unsuspected places. One dog may possess it and yet all 
of his brothers from the same litter may lack it. Real sires are 
very few. Careful breeders consider it the height of folly to 
breed to a dog simply because he has won a lot of prizes. Better 
find out whether the proper blood-lines are back of h m and see if 
they are such as are suited to the bitch that is to be bred. Also 
if each have the same fault or faults; or their immediate families 
have the same faults. We would rather breed to a ten dollar dog 
with a thousand dollar pedigree than to breed to a thousand dol- 
lar dog with a ten dollar pedigree. 

Some one has well written hat to breed dogs intelligently, the 
breeder should know the sire and dam, the grandsire and grand- 
dam, and all their brothers and sisters. To breed intelligently one 
should at least know many of the dogs that figure for three or 
more generation in the ped grees. 

Then whatever be the faults that exist in i he dam, there should 
be an effort to correct them in the sire to be chosen. Few Aire- 
dales have the short backs that are required by the standard and 
bitches usually have longer backs than do the dogs, and this is 
generally allowed them, in judging. Yet, of course, it would be 
folly o breed a bitch that is long in back to a dog that has the same 
well defined fault in himsel , or to a dog from a family known to 



THE AIREDALE 39 

have this failing. The same is true as to light eyes, heavy ears, 
broad skulls, bad fronts and feet, short necks and heads, snipy muz- 
zles, low set sterns, soft coats and many other short comings. It is 
plain then that any fault that is present in one of the individuals 
should be corrected in the other. 

It should also be kept in mind that no difference how well formed 
otherwise may be the individual, a nice long arched neck will 
put a finish on him that can not be overestimated. Here comes 
one of the serious problems in breeding toppers according to the 
standard. Long heads and long necks usually accompany long 
backs. Also specimens that have the hard straight wire coats 
demanded by the standard, usually are short on whiskers (or 
furnishings.) The present day high class Airedales do not have 
the whiskers that were formerly looked for. The strong foreface 
is supposed to be made of bone, and a slight chin whisker (goattee) 
placed under a straight barrel jaw is what is now expected to give 
the square mouth and other head points in this section. A bell 
shaped muzzle is most desired and seldom seen. 

Twenty five years ago, George Wilkes' sons crossed on Mam- 
brino Patchen mares produced the most and best trotters. The 
same thing appears to be true in Airedales today, for the crossing 
of the families headed by Champion Crompton Oorang and Cham- 
pion Master Royal have the reputation of having produced more 
good ones than the crossing of any other strains. We believe that 
the daughters of Champion Midland Royal have produced more 
champions than have bitches by any other sire. Personally, the 
writer believes that more even litters and a more fixed type may 
be had by breeding from sons or grandsons of any famous dog, 
that have been brought down through good individuals with good 
bloodlines, than can be had by breeding to the heads of any of the 
famous families, except in return breeding to these heads. 

It is for each person to decide whether he prefers to use line 
breeding or out-crossing and the subject of line-breeding is entirely 
too weighty for this hand book. 

We believe in line-breeding with due regard to the individuals 
to be mated. For line-breeding will as surely intensify faults as 
readily as it will reproduce good qualities. In any kennel it is wise 
at certain times to introduce some new blood. 

The novice lacking in knowledge to safely estimate lineage, 



40 THE AIREDALE 

will frequently find that the best pedigree for him is the name of 
the reliable breed. 

Where results are wanted it is much better to pay a reasonable 
stud fee and secure a satisfactory mating than to breed for con- 
venience. Honest efforts in the matings is the only way any of 
us will ever attain that much desired and enviable reputation 
as a consistant breeder of good ones — a reputation that will fol- 
low in history as the one worth while. 

The wonderful prepotency — or ability to breed on — of Cham- 
pion Midland Royal, was recently demonstrated in a litter that is 
line-bred and the fifth generation from him. They show certain 
family characteristics very plainly. 

The advantage to be had from breeding to a famous dog, of the 
old line, that has proven himself to be a sire, is that they are, or 
should be, closely related to the famous ones that gave the breed 
the reputation for gameness and grand utility qualities, when 
the breed needed it to reach the plane that it now occupies, and 
such a dog should impress these qualities on his progeny to a 
marked degree, especially if bred to his descendants. 

Quality and Utility ones 

The Airedale was builded for a worker — one always ready, and 
in our opinion, unless a continuance is kept along that line, he 
will surely lose much of his popularity that has been so well con- 
structed on that solid foundation. 

If persistent efforts were not continued with the famous strains 
of milch cows, would certain individuals continue to break the 
records and give more than 30,000 pounds in a year? Would hens 
continue to lay more than 250 and 300 eggs per year, if no efforts 
were kept up as to their utility qualities? If the top of the ladder 
may be reached in combining the individual qualities and utility 
purposes of many other kinds of live stock, may not the exhibi- 
tion points and the working qualities of the greatest all'round dog 
be combined and perfected into something even greater than has 
yet been bred? 

True it is more difficult to breed them so as to combine all the 
qualities that one may desire, but is it not worth while? If in a 
little over fifty years an Airedale can be produced that is judged 
the best in the show of several hundred dogs of all kinds, includ- 
ing some varieties that have been for centuries; and if during these 



THE AIREDALE 41 

years many are produced that will out do many older breeds in 
their own line of utility and do many things that no other breed 
can do, can not these two qualities be combined by systematic 
mating, educating and care? 

Do you think that in utilities the Airedale has reached the top 
and can not be improved in this respect? If you do, we must say, 
you do not know them. 

What would be the reward for the breeder who is able to bring 
out one that would defeat all comers in the show ring and surpass 
all others in other accomplishments? Would the several 
thousand dollars he could sell him for be all the compensation he 
would derive? Would not the pleasure the breeder would derive 
from an intimate knowledge of, and intimate association with such 
a constant and true companion be of greater value to him? The 
success would be a lingering pleasure in his memory to the end 
of his days and his achievement would go down in history. Has 
not the achievements of the canine race greatly improved in the 
past decade? Is not the future full of possibilities for man's best 
friend? 

Do you know of any other varities whose future is more bright 
than that of the Airedale? 

If these questions answer themselves, why not "get in the game" 
and try your hand? 

The show points to be considered in mating for this class, are 
covered in the preceding lines of this chapter. To this must be 
added the mating for brains, gameness, disposition and fidelity. 
As to mating for these qualities, little need be said. Brains may 
be produced from mating intelligent specimens that have such in 
their ancestry, the more of this kind that appear in the pedigree 
the better. Also, intelligence can, of course, be improved by 
educating the individuals to be mated. Read our chapter on 
training. 

The same is true as to gameness, with much stress being placed 
on proper management. 

Dispositions and fidelity can largely be covered with the same 
words as the foregoing qualities, but these are wonderfully influ- 
enced by the ability and willingness of the handler during puppy- 
hood and early maturity. 

In our humble opinion, which is shared by other writers, these 
qualities are best combined in the western bred ones, because, 



42 THE AIREDALE 

in the West there is much more use for the Airedale in a utility 
way — there is much more for him to do in hunting game of every 
kind and in other work usages. 

Two decidedly aged, nor two very young individuals should 
be mated. In either instance low vitality will likely result. 
If an old stud is to be used, splendid results may attain by 
using a bitch that is not aged. If aged bitch is to be used, 
mate her with a young dog. A number of real toppers have 
been produced in this way, especially by line breeding to a 
famous sire. 

Wherever located, invalids will find great benefit and remun- 
eration may be had from raising this class. 

Those who desire pleasant occupation of their time together 
with recreation and sportsmanship, will find this a most enjoyable 
employment. 

Fashion must be considered in breeding, and it changes and 
upsets one's plans. It must not be overlooked, for fashion usually 
has the price and he who is able to meet its requirements is able to 
get the increased financial gain to be derived therefrom. 

The just-happened-so kind 

We are pained to see that this class is going to largely increase 
in the future and in a few years will be seen many "mutts." Just 
as the farmer's wife believes that the Leghorns will lay more eggs 
than the Barred Rocks, instead of knowing that it is the particular 
strains that constitute the difference, will there be many to say the 
Airedale is the best dog for any and all purposes and will breed 
to any old thing without even going so far as to learn that the 
dogs mated are really made up solely of Airedale blood. Too bad 
that so noble a breed must recede in many instances in this way. 
We feel that nothing we might say would in any way lessen the 
crime nor further the day. 



CHAPTER VIII. 
RAISING PUPPIES 

We closed the chapter on "The Brood Bitch" with the puppies 
twenty four hours old. At about this time, if there are more than 
should be left with the mother, the extra ones are taken to the 
foster mother or drowned and buried, without the knowledge of 
the mother. 

There are many ideas about what to destroy and one never 
knows how many good ones he may put out of the way. It is 
necessary to give the matter some thought and figure as best one 
can under the conditions. 

Since there is usually more demand for males than for females, 
it is usually best to do away with the females, except where a 
male is clear. y too much off. 

Some say destroy the undersize ones. Others, those with white 
on them, and so on. 

Many of us believe that the best ones frequently have white on 
them at birth. There are two kinds of white. One that stays 
with them and one that leaves as the youngster grows. The stay 
white ones should be done away with, and one should know some- 
thing of the family traits to be able to distinguish. The descend- 
ants of Champion Midland Royal frequently show quite a bit of 
white on their feet and sometimes on brisket. We have never 
seen this fail to leave by the tan growing out through (from be- 
neath) the white. There are sires that show more white and of the 
stay kind. White is permissible on the brisket, but not elsewhere, 
therefore it is not necessary to consider this, as it usually dimin- 
ishes till scarcely noticable. 

In most of the families that we are familiar with, if the white 
does not appear above the foot, it is safe to believe that it will 
disappear. If it runs up the leg it indicates an ancestor that was 
not what he should have been and unless there are very strong 
reasons otherwise, this kind should not be kept. The writer has 
never bred any of this kind. 

The rule we follow is quite simple. First decide whether we 
wish the mother to care for six or eight. Then we look the males 
over and if they appear good, they are put back in the nest and we 
look for the best female and put her back. In this way they are 



44 THE AIREDALE 

culled till the desired number are left. One can get a fair idea of 
the coats and retain the hard ones. The shade of tan can be 
usually obtained from the small spot over the eyes. If one selects 
by color, he is reasonably sure of having a good :olored one, at 
least. The skulls, muzzles and bone should also be fully considered. 
In short, judge as best you can and retain the better ones. In 
some instances the females are more valuable than the males. 

Old breeders contend that the puppies that show unusually black 
will, after maturity, retain the color of saddle longer than others. 

The mother can handle quite a number for a few days, without 
any injury whatever and once in a great while one or two may die 
within the first three days and assist in the culling. 

If the mother is doing well and gradually increasing in the 
quantity of food consumed, the puppies will need no more atten- 
tion till four days of age. This is the time to cut the tails. Two 
ways are very easy. Remove all the puppies and leave the mother 
securely enclosed in the kennel. Have an attendant hold the 
puppy in one hand while the operator takes hold of the very tip 
of the tai and sever with sharp scissors, leaving fifty to sixty 
per cent of tail on the puppy. If a tail is cut too short it can never 
be lengthened, but if too long it can be shortened by a veterinarian, 
after maturity. A tail that is too short is quite injurious to ap- 
pearance of the dog. One that is about level with the head of the 
dog at maturity is considered to be correct. 

The other way to cut correctly is to have some one hold the 
puppy at the end of a board, placed on one end of a table, with 
the entire tail placed straight on the board. Place sharp blade 
of knife on tail and carefully get the correct proportion. The 
blade will easily go down through the tail to the board and leave 
a nice clean cut, as rapidly as the tails are cut, the puppies are 
returned to the mother in the nest and no further attention is 
necessary, as she will dress each one and in a few days they will 
be fully healed. Immediately after the tails are cut they will 
appear too short, at three to seven or more months of age they will 
appear too long, but when maturity is reached they will be the 
proper length, if the necessary proportion has been made. 

At the time of cutting the tails, all dew claws, if any, should be 
removed. This is done by using a small pair of sharp scissors, 
curved ones being preferable, and carefully feeling for the joint 
that is very near the leg bone. Two or three weeks later the 



THE AIREDALE 45 

puppies should again be looked over, if dew claws have re-appeared, 
they should again be removed. If they are cut sufficiently close 
the first time, they will not likely appear the second time. 

At this age, anything that is given the mother that affects her 
in any way, will quickly affect the puppies. 

The mother should have a teaspoonful of Calcium Phosphate 
in food morning and evening, this will increase the growth of bone 
and prevent the milk from souring. If the feces of the puppies 
are too lax, boiled rice should be fed to the mother. Water, in 
which Pearl Barley has been soaked, if given the mother, will have 
the same effect. 

The breasts of the mother should be closely watched, and if the 
puppies are not taking the milk from one or more nipples, they 
should be made to do so, or these should be gently milked. If 
this is not done, her breasts will likely "cake" and form an abscess 
If they do become inflamed, the mother should be removed and 
the affected parts bathed in a solution of vinegar. She may be 
put back with the puppies after the breasts are milked, bathed 
and dry. 

In case of loss of all the puppies, the same treatment should 
be given the bitch. 

If all goes well, and it most frequently does, the food of the dam 
should be gradually increased in both quantity and frequency. 
After puppies pass three weeks of age, they are quite a drain on 
the mother and it is not too frequent to feed her five or six times 
each day, not too large quantities, but of the most nutritious 
kind. 

At three and one-half weeks of age the puppies may be fed their 
first meal. This should be a small quantity of fresh cows milk, 
that has been heated to the boiling point, but not allowed to boil. 
This will destroy the germs in the milk. Place the milk in a shal- 
low pan and permit it to cool to the temperature of the mother's 
milk and gently dip the puppies noses into it. Very little en- 
couragement will start them eating and the quantity and frequency 
may be gradually increased. Fore noon and afternoon will be 
sufficient the first day. After three or four days some of the meat 
broth should be added and gradually increased in proportion till 
the milk is done away with, in a week or ten days. At this time 
some well cooked, finely chopped, lean meat may be given and 
gradually increased. Soon thereafter raw lean meat, finely ground 



46 THE AIREDALE 

may be given occasionally, and as soon as the puppies are feeding 
well, some rolled oats should be added to their food and a small 
quantity of Calcium Phosphate placed in it morning and evening. 
All of these to be increased as the puppies grow and increase in 
appetite. The meal at night should be the heaviest and contain 
the most meat. After four and one-half weeks of age they may 
be fed as frequently as five or six times each day, the meal should 
be removed in fifteen minutes after it is left for them and a fresh 
supply given next time. The mother will usually be pleased to 
have any that the youngsters do not care for. Sour or foul foods 
and dishes should be scrupulously avoided. 

As they grow, the quantity of rolled oats should be increased 
and puppy meal may be added, or the two may be alternated to 
furnish a variety in the bill of fare. At five weeks they should be 
quite interested in eating and the feed by this time should carry 
quantities of rolled oats, puppy meal and meat that the consistency 
is not at all sloppy. Corn bread and other scraps from the table 
may be now added. They should now be fed four or five times 
each day and this should be continued till they are several months 
old. Some will eat more frequently than others. Heavy feeders 
and any that are inclined to start fights, should be fed away from 
the others. In fact after they attain any size it is really best to 
feed only a few together. 

Any that are not doing well should have a liberal supply of 
raw or cooked lean meat just before retiring at night. 

Calves heads, sheep heads and bellies are very fine for growing 
puppies. Sheep bellies may be fed cooked or raw. Avoid pepper, 
yet a little may be used at the time of worming. 

If some are entirely too scrappy and you wish to take it out of 
him, this may be done by kenneling and feeding with an older 
dog, care should be taken that the puppy gets the necessary quan- 
i ity and quality of food. To have good ones, it is necessary that 
they keep growing all the time. 

We know of no rule as to what they should weigh at certain 
ages; nor how much they will take on each month. Different 
families and different individuals vary very greatly. Some will 
attain to almost their matured weight, by the time they are seven 
or eight months old, while others will mature much more slowly 
and will be puppies at twelve months. Usually the slow maturing 
ones are the better. 



48 THE AIREDALE 

In the event of the loss of the mother and one feels it would 
be well to try to raise the puppies by hand, it is usually best to 
have a reliable woman care for them. She will beat a man every 
day in the week. 

A bitches milk has about eight times the strength of cows milk 
therefore if cows milk is used in sufficient quantities to give the 
puppy the required nourishment, it may be seen that the quantity 
taken would distend the stomach and cause the puppy to be ill- 
shaped. Cows milk may be slowly heated and evaporated; orphan 
puppy food may be used, but really the best way, is to get them on 
the broth and meat as soon as possible. 

When puppies are four weeks of age, one should read our chap- 
ter on training. 

Better puppies may be had by feeding frequently in small quan- 
tities than by feeding less frequently and in larger quantities. 

They will get their second teeth at about four months of age. 
Should they be overshot at this age, it indicates that they will 
have good length of foreface at maturity, and the teeth will most 
likely be level when dog-hood arrives. If however, the teeth are 
level at this age, it is very likely they will be undershot when 
matured; or will have a short foreface. Should they be under- 
shot at four or five months of age, or before that age, we would 
advise their destruction, at least as far as breeders. 

All puppies have worms, some have more than others. At 
five to six weeks of age it is safe to treat the first time. The first 
thing in the morning give a capsule of eight grains of freshly ground 
Areca Nut. Follow this in thirty minutes, with a teaspoonful of 
Caster Oil. A half hour to one hour later some warm milk should 
be given, and repeated for a meal or two, then feed as usual. 

Treatment for worms should be repeated in a fortnight and 
continued for some months. After the second treatment the 
period between the dosing may be lengthened a few days each 
time till the last treatments are three to four weeks apart. As 
the puppies increase in size, the quantity of Areca Nut should also 
be increased. However, ten to fifteen grains should be sufficient 
in most cases. Some say that one to two grains of it should be 
given for each pound of weight of dog, yet our experience has 
been that no benefit is derived from giving such large doses. 

It is best that food for puppies should be heated sufficiently 
to take the chill off. In cold weather it is too much to expect the 



THE AIREDALE 49 

little fellows to heat it in their stomachs. Yet it is very easy to 
burn a clog's mouth. 

If milk is boiled it will cause constipation, and this should be 
avoided. 

Constipation at any time may cause other troubles and is a 
material aid to worms of all kinds. One of the great advantages 
of feeding broth, is that the grease aids in dispelling the worms. 
Unless puppies are kept reasonably free from worms, they will 
not thrive. 

If they are fed as herein described and it is noticed that worms 
are being dispelled, this does not mean that they should neces- 
sarily be treated for worms, but rather that the proper care is 
freeing them without the use of medicines. 

If a shelf is arranged so that the mother may get away from 
the ambitious, annoying youngsters, and she be given some 
exercise as a diversion, she will usually continue to let them 
nurse till about two months of age and the weaning will be 
done so gradually that neither mother nor puppies will know 
that it has taken place. If this does not take place in this 
way and she is inclined to wean them abruptly and sooner 
than is desired, very little can be done except in increased care 
and feeding on the part of the kennelman. 

Most Airedale bitches make the very best mothers and even 
after the puppies are weaned, will take pleasure in being with 
and teaching them to play and fight. This is very good indeed 
unless she takes too much pleasure in seeing a first class scrap. 
If this is persisted in, their dispositions may be injured so that 
they will be always ready for a mix-up. It is proper that they 
should know how to fight, and if it is bred in them, they will 
know how by the time they are matured. They are the roughest 
of players and frequently make quite a bit of noise when 
playing, causing some persons to think they are fighting. How- 
ever, when they are made of the proper stuff and after two 
months of age, even the uniniated will not need to be told 
when a fight is started. When a fight is started it should be 
stopped as soon as possible, otherwise some one is going to get 
not only cut considerably but may have so much of the 
"pep" taken out of him that he will be a very long time 
getting over it. We want them to know how to fight and to 
have the "grit" to do it, .but don't want it wasted on each other. 



50 THE AIREDALE 

It is not always the puppy that is ready to start a fight, that 
is the gamest of the lot. In some litters there will be a quiet 
fellow, one that is always self contained, one that will quit 
eating rather than have a fight, yet when the proper time ar- 
rives, this fellow may whip several of the others and then laugh 
about it. These quiet ones do not always show the brains they 
carry and frequently astonish their owner when real work is 
wanted. 



CHAPTER IX. 
TRAINING 

The Airedale is so adaptable that he will almost train himself 
He should be always ready and willing, and frequently have to be 
restrained, the more timid ones may need some encouragement at 
first, yet they may be the gamer when matured. 

We do not like to mention punishment, for so many persons 
are prone to punish a dog, when, in reality the dog is wiser than 
they and the person needs the punishment and not the dog. 

The only thing we know of that is worse than too much punish- 
ment, is letting an Airedale or any other dog be the boss and go 
unrestrained at all times. They are a nuisance and the person 
who owns such is wholly unfit to have an Airedale. 

One thing should be kept in mind, that a horse, dog or most any 
other animal will be your master unless you show him that you 
are the boss. This does not mean to take a club and go after him 
the first time he does something he should not, but that he should 
be gently, but firmly, "informed of his rights." A sharp word, a 
pinch of the ear will inform him. A shaking by getting hold of 
the skin above the neck and shoulders is usually as effective as is 
needed. All this may be summed up in the following words. Be 
boss of the dog; don't punish him unnecessarily nor when he does 
not know what he is being punished for. Do not punish any more 
than is necessary. Never call a dog to you to be punished, but 
go to him and after you have administered the required punishment, 
call him to you and caress him to show that you are still his friend 
and will continue to be when he acts properly. 

We could more than write this chapter on what others have 
taught their Airedales and the wonderful things they have done 
by their own initiatve, but you are not interested especially in 
what the other fellow's dog has done, but primarily in what yours 
will accomplish. If you have the right kind of an individual, his 
ability is limited only by your ability as a teacher. Whatever 
may be your business; whatever may interest you and be a sport and 
recreation for you, in these will he take an interest and be ready 
and more than willing to aid you and to add to your enjoyment. 







0) •* 






•~ a 

1? 



J3 r^ 

is 



THE AIREDALE 53 

They are great students of human nature and can tell at a glance 
when the master is not in his usual pleasant mood. 

Puppies should have some attention beginning at three weeks 
of age. They will quickly learn "his master's voice" and will 
come when they hear it in their kennel. At four weeks they will 
be ready for a little play and at six weeks we have had them to 
retrieve intelligently and at ten weeks to retrieve game. 

At five weeks they should be allowed to follow out to where they 
may see strangers, vehicles and other new sights. It is much easier 
and much better to accustom them to strange sights at an early 
age. Care should be taken that they do not get badly frightened 
and are not run over. One can not depend on them following 
reliably, at this age. 

After little experience in this way they should be taken out on 
the lead. After the collar and lead has been placed on the young- 
ster he should have a little caress to let him know that every- 
thing is all right, and then should be asked to follow. He may 
and he may not. Some will refuse by sitting down and defying 
one to pull them. Others will buck like a bronco. In either case 
the only way is to go on as if nothing was wrong, occasionally 
calling him to come on. At intervals it is well to stop and let him 
get a good breath and a nice request to come further, that so far 
he has done well. In a very short while he will be leading nicely. 
Don't give him too much the first time. One hundred yards on 
the street and return, is quite sufficient the first few lessons, no 
difference whether he leads or not. He will improve each time. 
This is a splendid time to get them used to children. After a 
lesson or two a reliable child will get better results than an older 
person. Airedales take naturally to children and should be al- 
lowed to get acquainted with them when very young. 

Should you be so unfortunate as to own one a few months old 
that most positively refuses to quit being stubborn on the lead, 
it is well to attach a chain to his collar and fasten the other end to 
a clothes line and leave him alone for thirty minutes or longer. 
The clothes line has more patience than you and is decidedly more 
stubborn than the puppy. 

After he has well learned the lead and to come when called he 
may be taken out loose, where there is no danger frcm rigs or 
cars, and taught to "back" or to "come behind", these expressions 
being alternated with "hie on", "go on" or any phrase you may 



54 THE AIREDALE 

like. Always use the same words to convey the same meaning, 
at least till he gets into high school and gets more familiar with 
your vocabulary, then you may talk as you like. Always talk 
to the dog in an ordinary voice, the same as to a person. The 
only whistle that is necessary, is when he is quite a distance from 
you and you wish him to return. 

After he is several months old, he may be taken out with the 
lead in your pocket, a cane or umbrella being used to keep him 
alongside. This bearing on the off-side of his collar will soon 
teach him to stay by your side. When this is well understood 
by him, you have a well broken dog for the street. 

When taken for his first ride, he should have little in his stomach, 
as he is quite likely to become "sea-sick" and soil something. 
He will enjoy riding in any kind of a vehicle and will readily learn 
to ride on most any part of an auto. It will be very easy to teach 
him to remain in the machine and to watch it. If he has not had 
sufficient training to stay when told, he may be chained in it at 
first, care being taken that he is so fastened that he can not jump 
out and hang himself. Should he happen to be too friendly with 
all comers, have some one come to the machine during your absence 
and after fondling him, to strike him sharply on the nose with a 
small switch. A very little of this will make him a strictly one 
man-dog. 

If you have no safe kennel for him and he is prone to run away 
from home, offer a standing reward to any one who will give him 
a first class thrashing, every time he is found away from home. 
It will do no good — but an injury — for the owner to whip him 
for leaving home* Let the other fellow do the whipping and the 
owner treat him nicely at home. Not many Airedales are given 
to leaving home, except to go hunting, but when one does get to 
be a confirmed loafer, he is the very worst yet. 

Teaching to Retrieve 

This is usually quite easy. First teach the youngster to come 
to you when called and then throw a light glove or roll a small 
ball, two or three feet from you and let him get it, don't hurry 
him, but give him all the time he needs and as soon as he has 
taken hold of it, command him to "come." It is best that his 
first lessons be given in rather narrow quarters, so that he can not 
run by you, nor very far away from you. When beginning with a 



THE AIREDALE 55 

puppy on any new accomplishment, retrieving or what not, always 
have him entirely alone, and with nothing whatever to distract 
his attention. If he picks the article up and only brings it a short 
distance, encourage him and thank him for it. He will improve 
very fast. Do not work him very long on any thing, he may tire 
quickly and when once he refuses to "fetch" and "gets away with 
it" it may be quite a job to make him work well. If he refuses to 
work, take the article in your hand, try to interest him in it 
by touching his nose with it and in other ways, then throw it again. 
If he does not then work, it is well to let him alone till he feels 
more like working. Frequently to let another dog retrieve in his 
presence, will start a youngster immediately. 

After he has learned to retrieve and has sufficient age to know 
what is expected of him and refuses, then go to him, place the 
object in his mouth and hold jaws together by taking the muzzle 
in your hand, allowing the fingers to clasp the under jaw. Then 
command him to "fetch" and at the same time pull him a few 
steps forward. Take the object from him and pet him for this. 
Perhaps after this caress he will bring it for you. If so do not ask 
any more of him at this time. Don't worry him nor fight with 
him if he does not work willingly, but wait till he feels more like 
working. As soon as he is retrieving well, throw the object and 
clap your hands together sharply, to indicate a shot; say "dead 
bird" and as soon as he has it command him to "fetch." A pair 
of duck wings fastened over a block of wood by rubber will make a 
nice imitation of a bird and acquaint him with handling feathers. 
Use the same words in teaching him that will be used in the field. 
Shoot a twenty- two rifle over him at first and kill a bird, he will 
do the rest. 

We do not think it wise to wash a puppy under six months of 
age nor to use him in water. After this he should be taught to 
retrieve from water. Most of them will take to water eagerly, 
if not, do not throw him in. If you can not get him to take to 
water any other way, wade in and lead him after you. 

When they have been taught properly to "fetch" it is just as 
easy to have them bring something that will be of service to you. 
The morning paper, hoe, shovel, pans, gloves, slippers in the 
evening, or any old thing that will interest you. 

To break a dog from rearing on you, put your foot on the toes 



56 



THE AIREDALE 



of his hind feet while his front ones are on you. Two or three 
lessons will stop this. 

It is just as easy for him to learn one language as another, and 
he may be taught different things in different languages. We 
have taught them three different languages. They may be taught 
to refuse to speak a certain language by asking, (in that language) 
if they can speak it, and at the same time throw a small quanity 
of water on him. He will soon learn to look at your hand when he 
hears the words, and seeing the cup will tuck his tail and get out 
of the way of the water. After he is familiar with the words a 
pocket knife or any bright object held in the hand will cause him 
to scamper away. Later he will need only the words. 

If well yard-broken there is very little to teaching them to 
take to game of any kind, they will only need experience, and that 
you retain control of them. Many will point quail naturally, 
but if they do not stop, they may be readily taught to do so by 
command. Unless it is intended to make a rabbit dog out of 
them, it is best that they be not permitted to run them. 

If they are to be used on big game they should not be permitted 
to run deer. This will interfere with them just as dees the run- 
ning of rabbits by a bird dog. 

If a dog is whipped before he is twelve months old it will in 



■ * 



iiiiiim,! 



1113111... 






This young bitch treed the large Canadian Lynx and then modestly posed with 
her "pal" for their photo 



THE AIREDALE 



57 



many cases take much of his gameness away and this should be 
avoided. 

Neither is there any reason in having a young dog tackle a 
coyote or other fighting animal, just to see if he can whip him. 
Let him learn these things gradually and save the hard tasks till 
there is some occasion for them. 

On big game 

If the bear has been treed or stopped, there is but one thing to 
do, that is to shoot to kill — not the dogs, but the bear. Shoot 
for th brain, either through the eye or other vulnerable spot. 

Some fighting may be had with a lion, if it is desired. The 
best Dlace to put the ball, in this case, is through his hind legs 
and be sure to break one or both. These are his most dangerous 




Four months old Airedale Bitch, Hy Born Lady and quail retrieved on 
a one day's hunt. 



58 THE AIREDALE 

weapons. We have broken the lower jaw, but this is not so safe 
and he may also lead you a merry chase for a distant tree, though 
they can only run a few hundred yards at top speed. The only 
gun to use on either a bear or lion, is a high power rifle, for the 
writer knows from experience that it is a most difficult undertaking 
to kill a lion with a shot gun, and we would not care to try our 
hand on a bear with one. To kill a lion with a rifle, shoot in the 
heart and hit the heart. 

When young, acquaint the Airedale with poultry and other 
stock, particularly your angora cat. This may save much trouble 
later. If he kills chickens and you can not break him in any other 
way, tie the dead chicken around his neck and let him wear it, for 
some days, that is, till the French would not eat it. 

Interesting him on mice, rats, gophers etc., will effectually 
divert his attention from killing chickens and other bad habits he 
may acquire. 

Airedales take so much exercise by playing and are usually in 
fair condition for hunting, but a soft dog should not be taken 
out on a hot day and caused to run too far nor to hunt too hard. 
He may have a fit. We have had this to happen several times with 
spaniels, pointers and setters. Get some water on his head as 
soon as possible and he will quickly recover. 

Stock driving, stopping chickens from fighting, remaining in 
the house and guarding it, taking care of children, being a com- 
panion for a sick or decrepit person and a thousand other things 
will come naturally to an Airedale that is endowed with brains 
and is properly controlled. 



CHAPTER X. 
KENNELING 

The Airedale appears to be able to adapt himself to a greater 
variety of climates than any other breed. He is at home in hunt- 
ing and sledging in Alaska and also in the warm climes. 

For this reason kenneling him is largely a matter of purse and 
disposition of his owner. This should not be construed to mean 
that he should not be kept comfortable, but rather that his kennel 
need not be expensive. 

Soils that contain much gravel or sand are very much better 
suited for kennels than are the heavier soils. Ground that will 
drain or dry quickly, is what is needed. An Airedale can stand a 
very great deal of cold, but like other dogs dry sleeping quarters 
are absolutely essential to health and working ability. 

A person who does not feel restricted in the amount that he 
wishes to expend for kennels, will naturally have ideas of his own 
and will construct them to suit his plans. For this reason we feel 
that it is unnecessary to suggest any of this class, yet such a per- 
son may get some ideas in a general way from this chapter. What- 
ever may be the kind or class of house that is used, it should face 
the south and have window or opening on the South side that 
will admit the sun. It should also be so situated that the early 
morning sun will strike it. Cold nights are long enough without 
lengthening them by having the kennels so situated that the sun 
will not strike them till late in the day. The dog will appreciate 
this early morning sun more than at any other time. It is also 
a great purifier. 

Whether closed or open fronts are to be used, drafts must be 
avoided. Don't put on one pound of flesh with food and shake 
two off in a cold kennel. 

We live in a climate that varies from 20 degrees above zero in 
winter, to 1 1 above in summer, and after several years of experi- 
menting with various kinds of houses, have decided that the open 
front is best adapted for our use, except in certain instances, 
herein after mentioned. The house that we have finally adopted, 
is about 3 feet wide, some 4 feet long and nearly 5 feet high inside. 
The longer side is faced South and is entirely open. All other 
parts are made very close. The floor is detachable, as is also a 



60 



THE AIREDALE 




A row of five kennels. This photo does not do them justice. 



second floor (or shelf) that is placed a little over two feet from 
the floor. Grown dogs usually prefer to sleep on the shelf. On 
unusually cold nights a curtain made from a gunny sack is tacked 
on the front at the top. protecting the upper part; or a partial 
board front is placed from the shelf to the floor. Either will 
answer and neither appear to be absolutely necessary. The 
yards in front of these houses are six by twelve feet and are en- 
closed by heavy wire fencing, except a twelve inch base above 
ground is of wood and eighteen inches below ground is of redwood. 
These fences are about seven feet high and yards are covered 
with poultry netting, excepting a shed roof four feet wide is placed 
in front and partially over the houses and so arranged that the 
water will be carried to the roofs of the houses and then to the 
outside. This arrangement makes the houses and a portion of 
the yards dry and admits the morning sun, but excludes the noon- 
day sun in summer. 

A dog and bitch or two individuals that will kennel well together, 
are placed in each apartment. Two will provide more heat in 
winter and will be more quiet at night, than will one dog alone. 
Puppies are given a little more protection in winter and several 
are put in one kennel. 

Five or six of these kennels are made to open into a larger exer- 
cise yard, into which all or part of the dogs are liberated at least 
morning and evening, care being taken to avoid fights. 



THE AIREDALE 61 

The gates have springs on them and latches that are self fast- 
ening. 

Such kennels are safe at all times. The Airedale is a climber, 
a digger and many are very clever in handling fastenings on doors 
and gates. 

The entire kennels are enclosed by a solid fence seven feet high, 
with two feet of poultry netting above this, at exposed points. 

Ever}' kennel should be provided with suitable hospital quarters 
that can be made comfortable at all times, and where the ailing 
one may be kept entirely free from dampness. This may not 
be needed very frequently, but when the occasion arises, it is needed 
right now and the weather may not be the best for providing it. 
Concrete under the buildings and in a portion of each yard, 
aids in cleaning and in sanitation, as well as keeping the dogs 
feet in good condition. Soft dirt in yards and runs will give you 
loose feet. 

Some digging is advisable, it keeps them occupied, teaches them 
how to dig and shorten their nails, thus improving the 
appearance of the foot. Too much of it for a youngster might 
have a tendency to throw the elbows out and spoil an otherwise 
good front. 

To prevent digging at points where it should not be done, drive 
wooden pegs, one inch square and eight to twelve inches in length, 
into the ground, leaving the tops flush with the top of the ground. 
They should be driven in irregular rows or the dog will be able to 
scratch between them. Being flush with the ground they are 
not visible and do not interfere in any way. 

In most any climate, where only a few dogs are kept, a barrel 
placed on its side and made steady, and supplied with straw, will 
provide quite a comfortable kennel. In extremely cold weather, 
a curtain may be placed over the end of the barrel and a slit made 
in it, to enable the dog to get in and out. The barrel should be 
in a Vied or otherwise protected. 

Where straw is used for bedding it should be frequently changed 
and the house swept and washed out, choosing, of course, the 
forenoon of a good day, to do the washing. 

We use very little straw for bedding. One or two gunny sacks, 
one within the other, with one to three sheets of corrugated paper 
placed inside them, make quite a comfortable bed, is convenient, 
inexpensive and sanitary. When the papers become foul they 



62 THE AIREDALE 

are burned and the sacks are hung on a wire fence and the hose 
turned on them. 

Tobacco stems may be placed between the sheets of paper to 
drive the fleas away. 

Corrugated paper shipping cartons are obtained from the grocer 
and cut into sheets the proper size to fit easily into the gunnies. 

In summer, if the Airedale is working, he will stand the heat 
nicely, but if he is idle, he must have shade. If this is not already 
available, it must be provided. A safely constructed tunnel is 
just to his liking, though there are many other ways of furnishing 
the shade. 

In the arrangement and construction of the kennels, care should 
be taken to avoid as many steps on the part of the care-taker as 
possible. This includes convenience of water, nearness of the 
table on which the food is prepared, to the place where the food 
is stored, and in turn, their proximity to the kennel gates. 

Kennel yards should be well cleaned each morning before feed- 
ing is done and the dogs turned out for a little run while the clean- 
ing is being done. Nursing bitches and young puppies that are 
being fed, should have the very first attention in the morning 
and have their food early. 

This cleaning is a very small job, if a grain scoop or large short 
handled shovel is provided and a suitable broom to sweep all 
objectionable matter,' including bones, into the shovel. This 
will keep the coats clean, materially aid in avoiding tape-worms, 
greatly assist in sanitation and cause less disinfectants to be needed. 
When at all foul, the ground should be turned over with a spade 
and if long in use, the soil in the yards should be removed and new 
earth placed therein. Sanitation and sunshine are great requisites 
in a successful kennel. 

No lamp should be used around the kennel, electric lights 
above the yards and in the buildings are best, but if not available, 
lanterns should be used. Even these should not be set on a board 
floor nor near anything that is inflamable. 

Pitch-forks should not be thrown down nor left where a dog 
may knock them over. 

A dog should not be kept in the residence during the day and 
then thrown into a cold kennel at night. Either keep him out of 
doors at all times, or house him at night fully in keeping with 
his occupation by day, otherwise pneumonia may result. 



THE AIREDALE 



63 



Don't give him a warm bath and then throw him out of doors to 
dry. If he is well groomed he will not need a bath. 

Disinfectants 

If the kennels are well cleaned morning and evening, more 
frequently, if necessary and convenient; the earth spaded at inter- 
vals; sunshine admitted; houses and bedding kept clean and the 
dogs groomed, exercised and fed properly, there will not be much 
need for disinfectants, though at times they are needed. 

We do not favor the lavish use of any disinfectants, no difference 
how much confidence one has in it. Sunshine and cleanliness will 
beat any that has been made or will ever be made by "mere man." 
A little slaked lime thrown around will act nicely. 




A type of house that is good for most any climate. 

It is made of inch lumber and the dimensions are about three feet in every 
way and floor is four inches from the ground. Roof is detachable. It is espe- 
cially good for invalids and weaned puppies, the lumber being tongue and grooved 
and put together closely; in very bad weather a curtain may be tacked over the 
door 



64 THE AIREDALE 

We are of the opinion that all disinfectants are not honestly 
advertised, by the manufacturers, and that more harm can result 
from their use, than can benefit. We are told by reliable veterin- 
arians that carbolic acid in any form is a most deadly poison for 
dogs and we believe that some of those extensively advertised 
for kennel use, have crude carbolic acid for a basis. In the year 
1 91 4 we were using a well known brand of sheep-dip as a disinfectant 
and during the season of several months that we have no rain, it 
appeared to be satisfactory, but when the first shower came the 
dogs feet began burning them and they were nearly frantic. Later 
developments showed that carbolic crystal had been forming 
during the dry season and the rain made them into carbolic acid, 
(so to speak). The dogs, by licking their feet, took it into their 
stomachs. The result was that we had about twenty five dogs 
and puppies killed and injured. The older ones lived but were 
injured and the puppies were killed. It was extremely difficult to 
eradicate it from the kennels. We believe there are some good 
disinfectants made. 

Our present kennels are located under some large Eucalyptus 
trees of an unknown species, and we find that they are very good 
as a disinfectant and deodorizer. The twigs are cut occasionally 
and thrown in the yards and houses and when half dry, are raked 
up and burned. The leaves contain quite a bit of oil and the 
fragrance will destroy all other odors. Dogs kenneled near these 
trees are also free from fleas and we recently smoked one, that had 
quite a case of distemper, by burning these leaves and bark, 
she was much improved in a few hours and soon convalesced. 

We have only tried this experiment a few months, but are great- 
ly impressed with it. 

If any reader wishes to try this evergreen our kennel man has 
gathered a limited quantity of the seed (acorns) and will be pleased 
to send post paid six acorns for twenty-five cents, or one dozen 
for forty cents. Address, Kennelman, 2225 White Ave., Fresno, 
Cal. 



CHAPTER XI. 
DISEASES 

Like punishment, we dislike very much to mention medicines. 
A great many persons are prone to administer either entirely too 
liberally. Frequently a good "bait" of green grass will do a dog 
more good than much medicines. In many cases where he is in 
condition to take it, a good bit of exercise will also be a valuable 
adjunct. However there are times when medicines must be 
resorted to. 

We firmly believe that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound 
of cure, when this prevention is had by keeping the dogs properly 
and in condition. 

For all diseases and ailments there are medicines offered by 
well known veterinarians and manufacturers, and the remedies 
mentioned by us are to be ussd, if preferred, or the others are not 
available. 

Pages could be written on diseases and remedies, but our remarks 
will be as concise as possible, and are based on our experience 
only. We might add, that in the several years that we have 
bred and raised Airedales, we have never lost one from disease. 
Good nursing should be the rule and feature treating in any dis- 
ease, and not dosing with medicine. 

The giving of medicine to a sick dog, should be gone about as 
quietly as possible and the dog worried as little as possible. A 
nice little caress and other evidence of interest in the invalid, 
may do fully as much toward this recovery, as will the medicine. 

Liquids are given by pulling the corner of the mouth out from 
the teeth, thus forming a pocket, into which the liqu d is poured. 
If the head is held up, the liquid will drain through the teeth and 
into the throat. Solids are placed well back on the tongue with 
the thumb and finger and then pushed into the throat with the 
index finger. Notice the dog for a few moments and see that he 
does not hold it a short time and then expel it. Certain medicines 
of either kind may be given in the food, provided the appetite is 
not off and the medicine such that will not be eaten in food. Many 
things may be most easily given by placing them within a piece of 
lean beef or liver. 



G6 THE AIREDALE 

Distemper 

By many, this is a most dreaded disease, yet we never try to 
avoid it and believe that the sooner the dog has it, the better. 
As a rule, a dog will have distemper but once, and if a youngster, 
is considered more valuable when he has been through with this 
disease that is most sure to visit him some time. The germ is in 
the form of a microb ; and may be conveyed in many ways. 

Symptoms 

This disease is so common and so familiar to all who have dogs, 
that it seems almost unnecessary to say much about the symptoms, 
though the disease does appear in different forms and in varied 
degrees of severity. 

The most frequent symtoms are, first the dog will become lan- 
guid; may or may not eat; will be cold and hunt warm places in 
the sun, elsewhere; then will become hot and drink quantities of 
water. A little later discharges will come from the nose and eyes, 
especially in the morning when just out of bed. Coat will appear 
dead and he will have no appetite. Become nervous and excitable, 
and when the case is decidedly developed, he may become quite 
"cranky" and display a very different disposition from his natural 
one. A dog may have a cold and discharge from nose and eyes, 
but this does not mean distemper. A cold will not inconvenience 
him very much and aside from sniffling a little it will soon dis- 
appear, if he is well fed and housed. 

When his nose is cold and moist, the dog is not very sick, but 
if the nose is dry and warm, the ears and lower limbs either hot 
or cold he is liable to be quite sick. These symptoms are usually 
found in distemper. 

Treatment 

There may be preventatives, but the only way to cure a case of 
distemper, is to cure it before the dog gets it. That is to have him 
in such condition that the disease can not seriously affect him 
It will surely run its course, whether that be a long one or a short 
one. 

Nursing is what the patient needs, together with the conserving 
of his strength and vitality. Distemper, of itself, will not kill 
but many complications that frequently arise, may do so. When 



THE AIREDALE 67 

we see a case of distemper among our dogs, he is at once given 
a good dose of caster oil, nearly half a tea-cupful for a grown one. 
He is then immediately put in a good warm kennel by himself 
and kept as quiet and fre* from excitement as possible. Plenty 
of clean water is supplied and sometimes a "chunk" of brimstone 
is placed in the water. He is offered an assortment of foods at 
the usual feeding time, only in small quantities, and if he does not 
eat, the food is removed in a few minutes. He is encouraged and 
petted and told that we know he is sick, but that he will soon be 
well again. 

A charcoal, pepsin and bismuth tablet is given three times a 
day and if he remains cold, or the weather is against him, a blanket 
is sewed on his body, particularly around the chest, for pneumonia 
is quite likely to set in and this must be kept off. In extreme 
cases, it is sometimes necessary to take the patient in the residence 
and keep him warm all night. But when this is done, he must 
not be put out of doors till he is fully recovered, for a relapse is 
most likely to be fatal. Quinine may be given to keep up his 
temperature and he must be kept warm. 

The charcoal, bismuth and pepsin tablets will benefit his stomach 
and bowels and get him in condition to eat, as soon as it can be 
done, in the mean time, he must draw on his strength and will 
power to combat the disease, therefore needs encouragement. 

He will probably eat some finely chopped raw lean meat or liver, 
the first thing. This should be given in very small quantities at 
first. Again something from the table may first appeal to him. 
When he begins eating, don't crowd him and throw the stomach 
all off, take it easy, he has lots of time to get his flesh back. Keep 
up the tablets and give food frequently in small quantities. 

If he becomes emaciated and very weak, it may be well to 
force a raw egg, or a raw egg and a little brandy, down him gently. 
Also give some nux vomica. In such an extreme case it is really 
best to call a veterinarian. 

In our experience with Airedales, we seldom have to do very 
much after giving the castor oil, though we have had extreme cases 
in other breeds. 

The past winter we had a bunch of puppies to have distemper 
when wo and half months of age, and they ran out in the rain and 
were given no attention at all, except of course, were closely watched. 
They were kept in a kennel having a warm house, and the several 



68 THE AIREDALE 

of them together provided the necessary heat. They never got 
entirely off their feed and in only a few days were fully recov- 
ered. We have had to sew a blanket on at night and have the 
dog tear it off the next day and go on about his business as usual. 
If the dog has distemper in the least severity, and is permitted 
to take exercise as soon as he is anxious for it, and is then allowed 
to cool off, one might as well arrange for a second class funeral. 
Moral:. Don't let him have any exercise till you know he is fully 
recovered, and then play the banker's plan on him, and add three 
days of grace. Very little exercise at first, will be fully as much as 
he needs. Increase food gradually and if he has any cranky 
ideas, be a little indulgent with him for a while. He may be som 
months before he is fully himself again. 

A bitch is more likely to contract distemper during her first 
period, than at any other time, and if she does have distemper 
she will most likely not have any puppies, if bred. 

Pneumonia 

Is an inflamation of the lung tissues and may follow distemper; 
an injury to the lungs; or if a dog has been retrieving from water 
in cold weather; or hunted in the rain and taken into an auta 
or other rig and chilled by riding home, and then thrown out 
in the cold to sleep, if he does not develop pnuemonia he will miss 
a splendid opportunity. Keeping the dog in a warm residence 
during the day, giving him a warm bath and then putting him 
out in the cold to sleep has caused pneumonia. 

Symptoms 

Patient very cold and listless, head down, pained when chest is 
lifted or interfered with, in fact appearing to be sore all over and 
manifesting a desire to be let alone and if ones ear is placed near 
lungs a wheezing may be heard. Later stage, will sit on haunches 
with chin extended and difficult breathing, wheezing or rattling 
in lungs more defined. 

Treatment 

Here again is another case for nursing and care, rather than for 
drugs. No need to offer food, yet something in the way of warm 
soup or milk will be of advantage when he will take it. Don't 



THE AIREDALE 69 

offer the usual kennel food, for he is disgusted with that and every- 
thing else. Go to the trouble of making a small quantity of beef 
or chicken broth (don't let him have any chicken bones) and 
don't be disappointed when he does not eat it, but try again, with- 
out worrying him. Give charcoal, bismuth and pepsin tablets 
three times a day and an occasional quinine, (2 or 3 grains) to 
stimulate and keep him warm. Keep him as quite as possible, 
in a place where no drafts can reach him, yet where he will have 
good pure air and by all means keep him warm at all times. Sew 
two blankets on him, if necessary, and then cover him over with 
something, if you can get him to lie down. In many cases they 
will not lie down at all and it is a bit difficult for a person to put 
them down, without great pain to them. Pressure on the chest 
must be avoided. Get him to sleep, that will benefit him more 
than all the medicines you can possibly administer. Then let 
him have water that the chill has been taken from. He may not 
want to sleep without being alongside his caretaker or master, 
yet if he can get a good sleep or two you will see a decided improve- 
ment in him and it is worth your while to see that he does sleep. 
After this treat the same as in extreme case of distemper and do 
not have a relapse. 

Chorea 

Is usually an after-effect of distemper or may be caused by 
worms; is a twitching of most any or all parts of the body. The 
only treatment that we know of, is to get your dog in condition* 
Improve his digestion and give wholesome and appetizing foods 
Free him of worms, if this is the cause. The case may be quite 
obstinate and recovery very slow. 

Worms 

In the matter of puppies having or not having worms, there is no 
room for argument. No difference how well and sleek they may 
appear. Therefore there is but one thing to do, treat them for 
worms as described in our chapter on "Raising Puppies". 

In dogs the symptoms are, dead coat, discharge from the eyes, 
ravenous appetite at times and none at others. 

If the dog is fed along the line given in our chapter on "Feeding", 
he will probably get rid of them without dosing, unless perhaps 
it may be a tape worm. 



70 THE AIREDALE 

If it is thought best to give medicines, there are many well 
advertised preparations. If these are not available the following 
treatment will usually get results. 

Do not feed him in the evening, but give a liberal dose of Olive 
Oil. The following morning, give about twenty grains of powdered 
Areca Nut, in capsules. Follow this in one hour, with at least 
two tablespoonsful of castor oil. Feed light one hour later. Re- 
peat in ten days or so. 

For tape worm, treat as above, except give a capsule of Male 
Fern, instead of Areca Nut. 

The writer some years a go bought a bitch and when she reached 
us, after a few thousand mi es of travel, she was breaking out 
with mange, was generally out of condition and had worms. We 
gave her a little of most everything, but could not rid her of these 
internal parasites. We also tried several remedies for mange 
without success. Finally we mixed quite a lot of sulphur and 
lard and coated her all over with this, for the mange. She prompt- 
ly proceeded to dress herself, by licking this mixture from her 
coat. In a few hours she got rid of a surprising lot of round worms 
and was free of them afterward. 

We have given a teaspoonful of sulphur in morning feed for 
several days, and then followed with Areca nut and secured a 
tape worm. 

Keeping the kennels well swept and the dogs free from fleas 
will materially lessen the chances from tape worms, still they 
may come from raw meat or water. Unless the head is removed, 
they will grow rapidly in body again. 

When some of the white flat segments, about three-fourths of 
an inch in length are passed, it is safe to assume that the tape is 
present and he should be kept after till gotten. Of course, the 
dog should have a week or ten days to recuperate, between treat- 
ments. 

Fleas 

Are a source of great annoyance to the dog when his coat is 
infested with them and they have the reputation of being great 
carriers of diseases and the champion conveyors of tape worms. 
Many things are said to be suitable for their destruction, but the 
most economical and satisfactory way that we have discovered, 
is, get a can of genuine Pyrethrum (insect) powder, puncture the 



THE AIREDALE 71 

top in a half dozen places with a very small nail. Put the dog on 
the grooming table, or his side, shake some of the powder on his 
throat, holding the other hand over eye and ear sprinkle the 
side, belly, legs and stern. Then gently brush the powder into 
his coat. Turn the dog over with his other side up and sprinkle 
as before. Then have dog stand up and sprinkle from top of 
head to tail, gently brush this into coat also. Then begin with 
the muzzle and brush well, in same manner as if no powder had 
been used and that you were only grooming him. Brush under- 
neath of body and inside of legs. By this time the fleas will begin 
to drop on the table in a semi-lifeless state and are easily killed. 
Additional powder may be applied where coat is heaviest and 
brushed out a minute later. Don't be in too much of a hurry 
to get the dog off of the table, for the fleas will continue to fall 
for several minutes. Repeat two days later and at such intervals 
there after as may be necessary. 

Kerosene may also be used, moistening a cloth with it and 
brushing the coat the right way with it. 

Nothing should be used on young nursing puppies, rid the 
mother of fleas before whelping and see that her quarters are also 
free from them. 

Salt scattered around the houses and kennels, especially in 
their probable breeding places, and then wet down, is a good way 
to stop the production of fleas. Tobacco stems used in the same 
way as salt are also excellent. 

When the weather will permit, the kennels should be sprinkled 
once a day. This will have quite a tendency to keep fleas down, 
and to keep the dogs cleaner. 

Mange 

Not all skin trouble is mange. True mange may be usually 
detected by quite a disagreeable odor and is different in appearance 
from other skin troubles. We are frank to say that our experi- 
ence with mange is very limited and equally as unsatisfactory 
We never had but one case of it, and we bought that one. Were 
unable to affect a cure and gave the dog away. We do think 
though that the treatment herein after mentioned for eczema, 
will cure many cases of mange and that getting the liver into 
action will aid materially any other external treatment. 



72 THE AIREDALE 

Eczema 

This is most likely to appear in warm weather and in some 
instances is quite stubborn. It is said to be caused by indigestion 
and consequent "bad" blood. Lack of exercise also figures in 
quite largely. 

Treatment should consist of a complete change of diet and 
conditions, as far as possible. In addition to the treatments 
hereinafter given, it is frequently best to give two or three good 
liver pills in the evening, for two or three days and to thoroughly 
cleanse the kennels and bedding, disinfecting well. 

Some kennel men make a rule of giving a teaspoonful of sulphur 
once each week, to all dogs, as a tonic and blood purifier. We 
acknowledge with courtesy, the following treatment from E. 
Blunt, Esq., of England. 

Contents of Mixture: 

Oil Tar 4 ounces 

Oil Turpentine 4 

Oil Olives , 4 

Parrafin Oil__ 4 

Cocoanut Oil « 2 

Precipitated Sulphur 4 

Thoroughly mix and rub well into skin with a brush. Do not 
wash it off. Do not expose the dog to cold with this on him. 
Also give one full teaspoon, each, of sulphur and magnesia, in food 
for three or four mornings and then skip for a week. 

We are indebted to Mr. Woodcock, of England for the following 
ointment, to be used in connection with the internal remedies, 
mentioned above. 

Carbolic Acid 1 dram 

Creosote 1 

Sublime Sulphur 4 

Oil Eucalyptus 10 drops 

Whale Oil to make 8 ounces. 

Shake well and apply to eruptions. Keep dog out of dust. 
Bathing for skin troubles, or other reasons is undesirable. While 
an adult may be bathed, puppies under six months should not 
be bathed. 



THE AIREDALE 73 

Bowel Troubles 

These may assume slightly different appearances. In any 
instance it is well to give a charcoal, bismuth and pepsin tablet 
three times a day, and in addition thereto, either two tablespoons of 
castor oil or some boiled rice, which has been cooked rather dry, 
Water in which pearl barley has been well soaked, will do instead 
of the rice and this mixed with boiled milk should be given when 
the disease has reached somewhat of a troublesome stage. In 
such cases solid foods should be avoided. Keep the dog quiet 
and free from exercise. 

Wounds when Hunting 

The most satisfactory salve we have ever had, was made by 
cutting some balsam blisters from the bark of a good live balsam 
tree, placing them in a small pan with badger oil, then slitting 
the blisters and slightly cooking the mixture, mixing thoroughly. 
Then strain the bark out. Bear oil, vaseline or lard may be used 
with the balsam. 

Ear Cancer 

The first signs that are usually noticed of this are, the dog scratch- 
ing at the inside of ear, or carrying his head to one side. By gently 
pressing and working the lower part of ear proper, a cracking 
sound may be heard within. Sometimes red sore places may be 
seen at the entrance to the ear. 

Treatment 

Thoroughly cleanse the internal ear with peroxide, or by care- 
fully bathing with luke warm water and castile or reliable medi- 
cated soap. Use a sponge or soft cloth and go carefully, as it 
will likely give the dog some pain. Discover if possible any for- 
eign substance that has found its way there. When dry, or 
nearly so, place in the ear one half to one teaspoon of powdered 
borax. On the second day, use borax without again bathing. 
In severe cases give internal treatment for skin trouble. 

Rabies 

Are usually a bugbear. In a recent report by the Superintendent 
of the New York Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Ani- 
mals, we read that in twenty years 150 employees had received 
about 30,000 bites and not a single case of hydrophobia had re- 



74 THE AIREDALE 

suited from the bites. The wounds were all cleansed, cauter- 
ized and dressed. 

Condition Powder 

If others are not obtainable.a very good one may be made by 
carefully rubbing three ounces of wood ashes and charcoal through 
a seive. Then add two ounces each of sulphur, powdered coperas 
and salt. Mix thoroughly and rub through the seive the second 
time. Give teaspoon in food morning and evening. 

Swimming 

If one is situated so that an Airedale can be given a swim 
occasionally, say twice each week, it will tend to keep him in 
the best of condition and have him ever ready to retrieve from 
water. He should be allowed to run, or roll on grass, till dry. 

Three have since become first-price winners. 



CHAPTER XII. 
COLOR AND OTHER POINTS 

We are told that the original color of the body was "Badger 
grey" or "Bronze Grizzle". 

Among many of the fanciers in America the idea seems to pre- 
vail that they are going to breed them right away, with the black 
bodies and get entirely away from the grizzles. This is no easy 
undertaking, since they are not made of "soft" varieties, but 
rather of the oldest breeds, and were bred for years with the 
lighter colored jackets. 

Every thing else being equal, the dog with the black saddle 
will win. But everything else is not going to be equal and while 
we do prefer the black saddle, we would rather have a real dog 
than to have color. On this subject, one of the very best judges 
in Old England, and who has bred them for more than a quarter 
of a century, writes us. 'T am not gone so much on jet black and 
rich tan. Generally these have a foreign expression to the breed, 
and very few extra good ones have been this color." 

On this same subject, an American who has bred them for many 
years says. "The grizzles almost always have more terrier qual- 
ity." While we believe the terrier with the jet black glossy saddle 
and rich or golden tan; and a hard coat will some day be bred, it 
can be clearly seen that all are not in favor of it, and that the task 
is not so easy. 

Nor do we believe that the man who breeds them only for 
show purposes is going to produce him. He may produce a dog 
having the color and other points, but he is not going to be a 
Terrier, for, where his ancestors for several generations have 
been kenneled and shown only, this dog is not going to show the 
terrier quality that is desired. Work and training is what will 
keep up the terrier quality and provide the desired expression. 
A dog without intelligence has an entirely blank face, or expres- 
sion. 

We note recently that one authority calls the breeders attention 
to the fact that, the standard calls for tan and not red. 

In this connection, the narrow skull is not going to be produced 
with the required intelligence, without work and training. We 
want a narrow skull, but want something inside of it. 



76 THE AIREDALE 

Most Airedales will go red up the back when a ew years of age, 
but the standard makes no provision for this. Since this is not 
considered a serious handicap, it will probably be one of the last 
faults to be eradicated. A dog that is sufficiently good can usually 
attain his championship, before he goes off in this respect. 

The Airedale Terrier Standard 

Head—Long, with flat skull, not too broad between the ears 
and narrowing slightly to the eyes, free from wrinkle. Stop 
hardly visible, and cheeks free from fullness. Jaw deep and power- 
ful, well filled up before the eyes, lips tight. Ears V-shaped with 
a side carriage, small but not out of proportion to the size of the 
the dog. The nose black. The eyes small and dark in color, 
not prominent, but full of Terrier expression. The teeth strong 
and level. 

heck — Should be of moderate length and thickness, gradually 
widening toward the shoulders and free from throatiness. 

Shoulders and Chest — Shoulders long and sloping well into the 
back, shoulder blades flat. Chest deep, but not broad. 

Hindquarters — Strong and muscular, with no drop. Hocks 
well let down. The tail set on high and carried gayly, but not 
curled over the back. 

Legs and Feet — Legs perfectly straight, with plenty of bone. 
Feet small and round with a good depth of pad. 

Coat — Hard and wiry, and not so long as to appear ragged 
It should also lie straight and close, covering the dog well all over 
the body and legs. 

Color — The head and ears, with the exception of dark markings 
on each side of skull, should be tan, the ears being of a darker 
shade than the rest. The legs up to the thighs and elbows being 
also tan, the body black or dark grizzle. 

Size — Dogs, 40 to 45 pounds weight. Bitches slightly less. 

(Undersized specimens are to be severely handicapped — Author). 

Scale o* Points 

Head, ears, eyes, mouth 20 

Neck, shoulders and chest, 10 

Body 10 

Hindquarters and stern 5 



THE AIREDALE 77 

Legs and feet 15 

Coat : 15 

Color 10 

General character, expression 15 



Total . 100 



CHAPTER XIII. 
SHOWING 

In these days of dog evolution, or breeding dogs for prizes and 
profits on an extensive scale, the "handling" of dogs in the show 
ring has developed into an art. In this way, it is of paramount 
importance that fanciers who elect to follow the pursuit of dog 
showing, whether as a hobby supplementary to their daily toil 
or avocation, or whether as a profession, to which dog showing 
lately developed, should post themselves up in the requirements 
of the show ring which are essential to success. It is not enough 
to possess a good dog, for it is often the case that a moderate dog 
well tutored and "handled," will beat a better dog indifferently 
shown. 

Whatever a dog may be at home or before going into the ring, or 
when he comes out of it, it is what he looks like at that critical 
moment when the judge's eye is on him, and when the judge 
decides upon the relative merits of the dogs before him. 

The writer has tied a great many ribbons on horses and other 
live stock and has placed first on an animal that might be entirely 
out of it the next day. Again we have seen those that were out 
of it today, come back and win first tomorrow. The same is true 
in judging dogs. Therefore it is necessary to have the dog so 
that he will show for all that is in him and at all times. 

Since there are so many different temperament's in them, it is 
not easy to have them do this. Schooling and educating is what 
counts. 

To make a show dog, one should begin on the puppy when he is 
quite young, getting him out frequently and so that he will stand 
up and be ready for anything that happens. 

When he is a few months old, put him upon the table and teach 
him to pose, by placing his legs in good position, the hind ones a 
trifle back; one hand under the base of his jaw and the other hold- 
ng his tail up. Talk to him and go easy with him. When you 
have given him a short lesson, thank him for it and give a little 
longer lesson a few hours later. At the conclusion, each time 
encourage him and in a very short time he will pose after your 
hands are removed. 



THE AIREDALE 79 

When he is out on the leash and sees another dog, encourage 
him a little by telling him to "watch him", or something similar. 
Let him think that he can "lick" any dog living, but don't let 
him get to the dog, being a puppy, one snap might take all the 
"snap" out of him. 

Another system is to use liver. Take two or three pounds of 
beef liver and boil it for half an hour, then place inside the oven 
and bake the same length of time and have it entirely dry when 
finished. Cut into cubes the size of dice, take a handful in your 
pocket and take the dog entirely away from all others, and from 
anything that will distract his attention. Take lead in one hand 
and a piece of liver in the other and tease him, by letting him 
nip at the liver, without giving it to him. Hold him back with 
the lead. Again throw the liver on the ground ahead of him and 
let him pull hard to get it. Stop this part of the education as 
soon as he gets interested, for pulling on the lead will throw the 
elbows out and cause him to stand awkwardly. The idea is to get 
him to stand entirely still, leash held loosely and he at attention 
all the time, with you motioning as though you were going to 
thorw the liver to him. It is best to take him out on an empty 
stomach for these lessons and occasionally let him get a piece of 
liver till all is consumed. 

It is quite difficult to tell one how to show a dog, they must 
learn it. One thing is very important, when you are in the ring, 
keep one eye on the judge and two eyes on your dog, never mind 
about the other fellow's dog, He is handling that one. 

It is by far best to have your dog show on his "metal" if pos- 
sible, and if he does this and wants to whip the other dogs, you 
should let him go quite a ways in that direction, always, of course, 
being careful not to make yourself a nuisance to the judge. 

The very best way for one to learn to show a dog, is to watch a 
person who is an expert and see just how it is done. 

When in the ring, one should at all times deport himself as a 
gentleman and sportsman, while endeavoring to get all that is 
rightfully coming to him, he should not try any tricks that will 
damage another. 

The judge will stand facing the block and when your dog is 
called to be closely looked over, take him around the ring to where 
he is facing the judge and then straight to the block. 

While it may be well to lift him up by the leash and set him 



80 



THE AIREDALE 



down squarely on his feet, that his front will appear at its best, it 
is all wrong to hang him up all the time. It may be necessary to 
have a taut lead on him most of the time, but don't pull his throat, 
ears and neck all out of line by hanging him up. No judge who is 
familiar with the game, is going to be fooled in this way. He will 
learn what kind of a front, pasterns and feet the dog has, before 
he ties the ribbons. 

Don't work the dog when the judge is busy with others, that 
will only tire him and cause him to be sluggish when the critical 
time arrives. 

Valuable dogs should not be left for the average show attendant 
to water and feed either look after your dog personally or pay 
some competent person to do so. If he is a light eater it is well 
to have some meat for him, as he will probably not eat the bis- 
cuits, and will become too gaunt. On the other hand he should 
not be too full, when taken into the ring. 

Most Airedales should be shown quite heavy in flesh, especially 
one that is inclined to be long in back. 

It is folly to make a pet of an Airedale that is to be a worker 
or show specimen. That is, we mean, do not be constantly pet- 




A Young Bitch of splendid type. 



THE AIREDALE 81 

ting him so that he looks for it all the time and comes around and 
rubs against you or lies down, to be petted. He will have no 
snap in him if this is done. Let him be up and coming, ready for 
a foot race with you or to kill the neighbor's cat, whip his dog, or 
any old thing, just so he is on his feet and alert. 

Trimming 

No difference how good he may be, all of them need some trim- 
ming to get them in condition for showing. Those with correct 
coats need very little trimming, this is entirely permissable and 
is generally practiced. The object being to bring out the strong 
points, and when necessary, to have a good new coat at the time 
of the show. Like showing, stripping must be learned and there is 
room for no little skill in properly doing it. 

We know of three ways to remove the surplus or dead hair. 
By using stripping comb; by plucking with thumb and finger; and 
by using a knife that is not too sharp, and catching the hair be- 
tween the blade and the thumb. Scissors should not be used, 
for they will leave marks that show the dog has been stripped, 
will not remove the dead hair and no decent work can be done 
with them. 

If a new body coat is needed, this part of the dog should be 
stippped about two months before the show. Those who grow 
their coats rapidly will not need quite so much time, while those 
who grow slowly will require fully this length of time. The fin- 
ishing of the body, removing the surplus hair in the flanks, on the 
belly at the waist, (this will deepen the brisket,) and of the sheath, 
may be done about a week before the show. 

The head, neck and shoulders, ten days to two weeks only are 
required to grow a new coat. In some instances the skull will 
require only a week or ten days. 

The feet should be trimmed, with small scissors, three weeks 
before showing, removing all the hair around them at a point 
where they come in contact with the ground and just above this 
point. The intention is to have them appear small and well pad- 
ded. If the dog has been kept on soft ground and his nails are 
long, these should also be cut, but not close enough to bleed. His 
nails will be conditioned and his feet tightened up and improved, 
by exercising on paving or hard road. 



82 



THE AIREDALE 




Hy-Born Belle 196014. 

"Hy-Born Belle" that the author thinks is as great as has yet been produced 
in combining show points and extreme Airedale qualities. 

Excepting the feet, no trimming is to be done below the elbows 
and hocks, nor in front of a line drawn around the head at the eyes. 
In all cases the trimming is to be done so that the longer hair 
graudates evenly to the shorter hair, and so that the tan will 
meet the darker coat properly. 

In trimming the head, the whiskers are left untouched, while 
the skull and throat are stripped quite closely, the object being 
to have the muzzle and foreface as strong as possible and the skull 
nanow. Proper trimming of the throat and skull lengthens the 
appearance of the head. A perfect head would b in the shape of 
an oblong square, whether viewed from in front or from the side, 
the muzzle being square and as broad as the skull, the under aw 
being straight, also top 1 ne of the head, except a possible fullness 
at the eyes. The ears should be well trimmed and if at all heavy, 
especial a tention should be paid to the edges, that the ears may 
appear as small as possible. 

The tail may be lengthened an inch by leaving the long hairs 



THE AIREDALE 83 

entending beyond the bone; or it may be shortened by removing 
these and slightly pointing the tail, that the end may appear 
properly, at the very end of the bone. Usually the top of the 
tail should be about level with the top of the head. The hind- 
quarters may be broadened in appearance, by making the tail 
smaller. 

Dogs that are short on furnishings on the foref ace and front legs, 
will most likely have more when two years of age. In fact, most 
Airedales are at their best, as to show points, when around two 
years old. Slow finishers are not made up until this age is reached. 

It is very rare indeed to see a straight hard coat in company 
with plenty of whisker, yet this is what we strive for — not too 
much whisker, but enough. As a rule, an abundence of whiskers 
accompany a soft coat. 

For two or three weeks before showing, the dog should be kept 
kenneled and given most of his exercise on the lead, that he may 
learn to be at his best when on-the lead. An hour may be spent 
profitably morning and evening, in this way. 

During this time he should be thoroughly groomed each time 
before being taken out, brushing for five to ten minutes and hand 
rubbing for the same length of time. The coat may be much 
improved by placing a raw egg inthe food once or twice each day. 

When you are defeated in the ring, take your medicine and 
carefully study the dog that beat yours artd learn how to beat him 
next time. 



CHAPTER XIV. 
SELLING AND SHIPPING 

If one is in the business for profit as well as pleasure, or is even 
planning to have his kennels pay their way, selling is a very im- 
portan matter for him and in some instances leads the breeder 
into injurious paths, that of selling some inferior dog or puppy 
for more than it is worth. This, in the long run will not pay, if 
one intends to stay in the game and feels like looking every man 
squarely in the face. It is much better to give each customer a 
little more for his money than he expects, than to get a 1 ttle moie 
money than you give value There is no better ad than an en- 
tirely satisfied customer. When your business is conducted along 
these lines and you frequently hear of persons, of whem you do 
not know, saying, "You may try where you please, but when you 
get through and write to the 'Reliable Kennels' you wil buy there 
and get what you are look ng for, if you want a good one and your 
money's worth", then will you feel that your efforts have not been 
in va n and that you are reaping some reward. This has hap- 
pened frequently and will happen to any one who breeds them 
right and sells them worth the money. 

To do this, what is necessary? You must have the stock to 
breed from; you must know the breed and how to mate them for 
results; and you must study and be able to know what you are 
offering. Furthermore, you must watch the market both as to 
values and as to changes in fashions and other conditions. 

If you wish to improve your stock, it is best to hold onto the 
good puppies that promise to make what you like, than to even 
sell them for a rather long figure, and be unab'e to replace them. 

Puppies that are intended for sale, should be so d for what 
they are worth at the time, not what they may be worth later. 
That second value may come and it may not. 

The seller must know his stock, and if he will take the best 
of care of it and strip it up some before shipping and brush the 
coat enough to have it in good condition, the buyer will be better 
pleased than if a superior dog is sent, that is out of cond tion. 
If the dog should be out of condition at the time it is offered, the 
buyer should be informed of it. The distance of the custcmer 
from the seller, should not enter in to the consideration at all. 



THE AIREDALE 85 

This old world is getting smaller every day and distance is be'ng 
constantly shortened. 

The man who knows a good dog and wants a good one, will be 
willing to pay a fair price for him but the ordinary buyer is mainly 
concerned with general appearance and attractiveness. 

Stock that does not come up to the standard set by the breeder 
and yet is intelligent and good for utility purposes, may be sold 
un-named and without pedigree. Yet if your breeders are good 
and have been bred for generations along these lines, there will 
not be much if any need of such sales. They may come in a case 
where one has bought a bitch in whelp, or even one and bred her 
to his own stock. If some of her ancestors were bad, no difference 
how good your stud is, some of the puppies are liable and most 
likely to "breed back", and it is these that may be sold as suggested. 

Shipping 

Judging from the crates that we see dogs shipped in some times, 
it would seem that the shippers were more interested in enabling 
the express company to declare large dividends, than in the sale of 
dogs and his customers welfare. The writer bought a 4G pound 
bitch that was crated at 125 pounds when she could have been 
crated at /5 to 85 pounds. No need to pay ten to fifteen cents 
per pound on unnecessary lumber. 

The ignorance that is displayed in many ways in shipping, by 
persons who should know something about it, is absolutely as- 
tounding. This is one point that gets on the writer's nerves, but 
we shall refrain from "roasting" such persons— though they really 
need a li eral roasting — and will try to tell how we think shipping 
should be done. 

Don't ship a dog so that he will arrive at his desitnation, or 
at some branch junction, on Sunday and be compelled to remain 
in the crate a day longer. 

Ship as promptly as possible after the order has been received, 
and if possible, advise the customer in advance, when to expect 
his purchase. 

The Crate 

A slightly larger crate is required for long shipments than for 
shorter ones and if the dog is to remain in the crate more than 
twenty four hours, a false or inner bottom should be put in and 



86 THE AIREDALE 

fully arranged for drainage. There should be a space of fully a 
half inch between this and the outer bottom of crate. This false 
bottom should be securely fastened, for fear the crate get;s upset 
by accident, or is thrown over by some human who should be in 
an iron crate, and the loose bottom lodges and cramps the dog. 
The crate for a grown Airedale should be 28 to 3t inches high, 1 8 
to 22 inches wide and 36 to 42 inches in length. Roof should be 
tight to protect from sun, rain and drafts. An inch and a half to 
two inch space should be left on each side, immediately under the 
roof, the length of the crate. This will provide sufficient circu- 
lation of air and avoids drafts, as well as having ventilation shut 
off by other merchandise in the cars. 

If the dog is going any distance a hinged door should be made 
at one end of the crate, that the messenger may the more conven- 
iently feed, water, clean out the crate and give the dog a little 
exercise. 

Collar should be placed on the dog and a chain fastened on the 
outside of the door, in a very convenient manner for removing. 
The kennel name of the dog should be placed on the top of the door 
so those handling and receiving him, may call him by his familiar 
name. 

A vessel for water should be conveniently arranged, yet so 
fastened that it will not be constantly turning over or spilling. 
Sufficient food should be placed in a sack, one side of the top of 
which, is securely fastened to the end of the crate, The best 
rations for the journey, are dog biscuit and corn bread. The 
latter should be cooked with some grease in it. 

Whatever may be the size of the dog, one of the most necessary 
things to be considered in crating, is, that he has enough room 
for his head to be up at full height without hitting the roof. We 
have seen a puppy that was unable to get his head up for a week, 
after being shipped in a low crate. 

Good stiff straw makes the best bedding, and allowance should 
be made for it breaking up and being removed. 

Always teach the dog to lead before shipping. 

At the present time, the express rate on dogs is one and one-half 
the merchandise rate. Dogs returning from shows carry three- 
fourths merchaniise rate. 

In some cases it is to the sellers advantage to advise the pros- 
pective buyer, what the probable express charges will be. 



THE AIREDALE 



87 



Carriers are obligated to deliver at the end of their routes, 
dogs, in the same condition as received, except in case of damage 
resulting in some unavoidable manner, such as an act of the dog. j 




Champion Midland Royal 



CHAPTER XV. 
ADVERTISING 

This is really a personal matter and many things enter in for 
consideration and no difference how conservative the beginner 
may be, he is sure to feel that he has thrown away some money 
in certain advertisements. Yet in this he may be mistaken, for 
results may come in an indirect manner and long after the ad is 
forgotten. 

Do not expect your public announcements to do it all. Right 
here is where many beginners come to grief. They forget that 
a pleased customer is the best advertisement. Your press state- 
ment is merely a sort of intr eduction after all, just bringing buyer 
and seller together. It may create the new customer, but it 
does not take care of him. It should never be forgotten that the 
building of a good kennel business depends as much upon the way 
the new customers are treated as it does upon getting them the 
first time. First be sure you have the goods to deliver; and then 
let your values, service and courtesy be such as to make people 
want to buy your stock and tell their friends about it. That is 
good advertising for you, better than you can buy in any paper. 

No difference how good may be your stock, it will not sell itself. 
There are many ways of advertising, such as constantly telling 
people what you have: having dogs out where they may be seen; 
showing; and the many uses of printers ink. Having Airedales 
that will work and surprise "the natives" is also very good. To 
have every one in your local town or city, know and think well 
of your stock is one of the best means of advertising, since every 
inquirer will receive a favorable report. Also, when you have 
attained a "rep" your friends and the press will gladly advertise 
you in a way that money will not. 

Remember, too, that printed matter has a personality of its own, 
arid see that your kennel cards and circulars are not allowed to 
malign you or your stock. Good printing, paper and engraving 
all have considerable advertising value, and are well worth what 
they cost. The very letter you write is often the basis upon which 
a distant customer builds his opinion of the quality of your pro- 
duce; and y ur kennel literature stands for yourself to people 



THE AIREDALE 



89 



who have never met you. Take time therefore over your circulars 
and stud cards; and personally makes sure the proofs are correct 
before printing. 

Few things tend to inspire confidence in a kennel more than con- 
tinuous, temperately worded and truthful advertising,. 

It is up to each individual to decide and to ascertain what 
periodicals are the best located and best suited to his stock. If 
you have the quality in stock, distance is not to be considered to 
any great extent, but there must be something in your announce- 
ment, and in the follow-up that will carry the necessary weight. 
When an inquiry is received it is up to you to handle this in a way 
that will bring results. Cuts of at least some of your stock will 
aid materially. 

The editors of most of the kennel papers will be pleased to aid 
you in getting up copy for their respective papers, and their ex- 
perience in this line is worth considering. 

Advertising does not always bring immediate returns and if 
one has the stock, it is best to keep eternally at advertising and 
the results will come. 

Cheap — or inexpensive — advertising is most likely to reach 
persons who are looking for cheap stuff. The cost of an ad that 
will sell sufficient stock is much less, than is an inexpensive ad 
that sells nothing. However there is no good judgement in the 
beginner putting large sums into advertising, till he has learned 
where to place such ads, and equally important is his ability to 




Three months old puppy bringing in the morning paper. 



90 THE AIREDALE 

know his stock and the Airedale game in every detail. This 
may only be had by experience. 

Get your stock; know what you have; advertise honestly and 
conservatively; treat every inquirer well, whether he buys or not; 
keep eternally at it and the results are sure to come. 



CHAPTER XIV. 
MISCELLANEOUS 

This chapter is intended to contain some things that have oc- 
curred to us after the writing of the foregoing ones and some other 
"random shots." 

The dogs health and happiness depends on the good treatment 
you give in food, kennel and a display of your affection. 

Rolled oats cooked in milk, is splendid food for a bitch in whelp. 
Cooked vegetables, carrots, turnips, onions etc., should be fed 
also once or twice a week, but the vegatebles should be discon- 
tinued for ten days or two weeks, after the puppies arrive. Rolled 
oats cooked in milk, dog biscuit broken and fed in broth, cooked 
and raw lean beef, should be the principal food for the nursing 
bitch. Table scraps will be much enjoyed by her at any time. 

©id you ever stop to think that all the pay the dog realizes he 
gets from you, is your displayed affection As to food and a 
place to sleep, he thinks these are coming to him, but when you 
let him accompany you or be near you, or caress him and thank 
him for some act of his, then he thinks he is being paid and that 
is all the coin he wants. This is quite inexpensive to you, so let 
him have a sufficient quantity to satisfy him, but not sufficient 
to cause him want to too much caressing. 

A choke collar may be used on some Airedales to advantage, but 
as a rule, tocultivate their fidelity is sufficient. 

Don't put pepper in the food at all times, only when it is thought 
necessary to free them from worms. 

A piece of rope a few feet long, knot on each end, will provide 
much amusement and exercise for them. Also will limbs form 
trees if piled up so they may climb and jump over them and crawl 
under. 

A medicine chest should be provided and such remedies as are 
needed, kept free from dust and where they may be easily found. 

Powdered borax should be frequently sprinlked in the retainer 
in which the droppings are placed and on the droppings, to kill 
flies. Fly traps or fly paper should also be used. 

Mother and puppies should have a wire screen in summer, to 
protect them from flies and other insects. 



92 THE AIREDALE 

Uneaten food should not be left for an attraction to flies. 

"Come-back" bread obtained from restaurants, soaked in 
broth and to which is added some bran and rolled oats, provides 
an inexpensive appetizing meal. 

Frequently a bad feeder may be made to eat more by placing 
another dog in the kennel and feeding both from one vessel. 

Also pretending to take the food from him, will frequently cause 
him to want it. 

Clean fresh water doesn't cost much and you like it for your own 
consumption, don't you? 

Same is true of the food dishes. 

Cod liver oil may be put in food for puppies, to an advantage. 

Concrete may be used extensively in constructing kennel build- 
ings. Is easy to cleanse, prevents drafts and is most sanitary. 

Some tell us that a collie will quit, when driving stock in warm 
weather. A reliable Airedale will not. 

A brainy Airedale will quickly adapt himself to most any voca- 
tion and surroundings. Whatever his master does he will want 
to aid. We have seen them try to help catch minnows and know 
of one that will carry a lighted lantern to the barn for her master, 
when he returns home at night. The writer owns one — she is not 
for sale — so we are not advertising her, that can catch two mice 
in her mouth at one time and the third with her feet. She stops 
poultry fights, points quail, retrieves from land or water, will 
fight a cyclone and is a splendid companion. She is also a winning 
bitch and the dam of the dog shown with the police sergeant. 

When we wrote the chapter on proper matings, we did not 
expect to own Champion Midland Royal, but since what was writ- 
ten, is thought by us to be absolutely true, we will not change it. 

Finally: We mentioned to the business manager of one of 
the kennel magazines that we were thinking of getting out a book 
descriptive of the Airedales in which we are so interested, and 
said business manager suggested that a book on the breed in 
general, be written instead. So if we have failed to benefit you. 
dear reader, he is the one to be censured. 

If we have been of any aid to you or the noble breed of dogs, in 
whose interest this effort is primarily made, or any other breed we 
shall be pleased and will pass that pleasure along to the said busi- 
ness manager. 



INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS 

Companions, '■_ ______ 11 

Out with the sergeant, _ _ _ _ _ _ 12 

Hy-Born Defiance and "Tom", _ _ _ _ _ 14 

Haphazard, a, _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _17 

Model, _ _ _ _ _ _ 20 

Ch. Clomnel Rough and Ready, _____ 30 

Feeding time, _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ■ 36 

A promising litter, _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 48 

Bitch and lion skin, _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 52 

Child, lynx and Airedale, _ _ _ _ • _ . _ 56 

Hy-Born Lady and quail, _ _ _ _ _ _ .57 

View of kennels, _ _ _ _ __ _ _60 

A good type of house, _ _ _ _ . . _ _ 63 

A splendid young bitch, _ ;.'""■"_ _ _ 80 

Hy-Born Belle, _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 82 

Show and Utility type, ______ 82 

Bringing morning paper, _ _ _ _ „ _ 89 



INDEX 



Achievements to be attained... 58 
Adaptability, .. 9, 10, 13, 13, 51, 54 

.55, 58 

Advertising, 88 

All 'round good ones, 16. 40 

Areca nut, 48, 70 

Aristocrat, .13 

Bargains in, 15, 19 

Bear hunting, 57 

Bedding, 61 

Beds for bitch and puppies. 36, 91 

Beef, raw, 2b, S7 

Bell shaped muzzle, 39 

Bitches, age in use, 32 

Bitches, age to mate, 32 

Bitches are cheaper, 22, 44 

Bitches in pedigree of stud,. ... .27 

Bitches in use, keeping, 22, 27 

Bitches, retaining good ones. 22, 35 

Bitches, utility of, 22, 32 

Bone, growing, (see Calcium 
Phosphate.) 

Bones, 29 

Bones, causing fights, 25 

Bones, chicken, 23 

Bowel trouble, 73 

Brains, .16, 41, 50, 58, 75, 75, 92 

Bran, 23, 24 

Bread, 24, 25 

Breaking to auto, 54 

Breasts, care of , . . ■ • 45 

Breeder's Assistance, ... 20, 21, 39 
Breeder's reputation and judge- 

. .ment, 20, 22, 39, 40, 84 

Breeding for convenience, 40 

Breeding for nothing, 18 

Breeding, pleasure and bene- i 

fits in, 41, 42, 51, 90 

Breeding, services, 33, 34 

Breeding to winners, 38 

Breeding vs buying 15 

Breeds used in making 9 

Brood bitch and puppies bed, .36, 91 
Brood bitch, average number 

of litters 32 

Brood bitch, care and feed, . . 

. .31, b2,34, 34, 35, 36, 37, 45 
Brood bitch care of breasts, .... 45 
Brood bitch, controlling coat, 32, 68 
Brood bitch,-continuous mating 32 
Brood bitch, contracting dis- 

• temper, 32 

Brood bitch, effects of educa- 
tions, 32, 34 

Brood bitch, diversion for, . . . 

34, 37, 49 

Brood bitch, feeding while in 

whelp, 24, 29, 34 

Brood bitch, fleas, 34 

Brood bitch, free from worms, 32 
Brood bitch, frequency in use. 32 
Brood bitch, frequent large Ut- 
ters. 32 



Brood bitch, giving calcium 

phospnate, 34 

Brood bitch, going out of use, 

33, 34 

Brood bitcn, good necessary, . . bl 

brood bitcn, large, 31 

Brood bitcn, meal, . . 31, '62 

Brood bitcn, laxative before 

whelping, 34 

Brood bitcn, milk vs cows 

milk, 45, 48 

Brood bitch, period, 33 

Brood bitcn, period of gesta- 
tion, 34 

Brood bitch, safety, ........ 33, 34 

.Brood bitcn, selection of,. 31 

Brood bitcn, snelf when nurs- 
ing, 37, 49 

Brood Ditch, the, bl 

.Brood bitcn, time in whelping, 35 
Brood biccn, value of in mat- 
ing, 31 

Broou. uitch, working of,. . . .32, b4 

Brotn, maKing, 23 

Brotn, sour, 25 

Brotn, sour to bitches, 25 

Butter milk;, 24 

Buying, ...19, 20, 21, 22, 27 

Buying bargains, 15, 19, 20 

Buying, Iriend's advice,. ....... 19 

Buying, object in, 19, 22 

Calcium Phosphate, 34, 45, 46 

Caiuping, how to feed, 26 

Cats, . . 58 

Cn. vJlonmel Rough and Ready 28 

Ch. Orompton Ooring, 39 

Ch. Midland Royal,. .39, 40, 43, 92 

Chicken bones, 23 

Children's protectors, .... 10, 53, 58 

ChoKe collar, use of, 91 

Chorea, 69 

Cleansing, 21 

Climates, adaptability to 59 

Coat, the 83 

C. O. D 22 

Cod liver oil, 92 

Color at birth, 18 

Condition powder, . 25, 74 

Constitpation, 49 

Color and other points, . . 16, 44, 75 

Copperas, 25 

Corn meal, 24 

Correcting faults,. 38 

Cows, lesson from, 20, 40 

Cows milk vs bitches, 45, 48 

Crate, the shipping, 85 

Culling puppies, 43, 44 

Cutting tails, 44 

Demand for, 16, 17 

Dew claws, 44 

Digging, advantages and ills, . . 61 

Digging, how to stop,. . , 61 

Diseases 65 



Disenfictants, 63, 64 

Disposition, producing, . .41, 49, 78 

Dispositions, 9, 10 

Distemper, 66 

Distinction in owning, 13, 16 

Docking 44 

Dog biscuit, 24, 25, 91 

Ear canker, 73 

Eczema, 72 

Educating breeding stock, 41 

English breeders, 29 

Exhibition matings, 38 

Exercising, 10, 23, 24, 74 

Express companies as agents, 22 
Express companies risks, .22, 86, 87 

Fad, not a, 13 

Famous dogs, breeding from 38, 40 

Fashion, changing of, 42 

Fatten, how to, 25 

Feeding, 23, 92 

Feeding, abrupt changes in, . . 23 

Feeding, bran etc., 24 

Feeding large kennels, 23 

Feeding puppies, 45 

Feeding puppies, bad doers, 46, 92 
Feeding, summer and winter, 24, 48 

Feeding to avoid worms, 25 

Feeding to suit dog, 23, 24 

Feeding when camping, 25 

Feet, tender, 21 

Fighters 46, 49 

Fits from hunting, 58 

Fires, avoiding, 62 

Fleas, 34, 70, 91, 92 

Flies, destroying 91, 92 

Foundation of, 9 

Foster mother, (See mother, foster) 

Fullers earth, 21 

Future of, 41 

Garlic, 23 

Giving medicine, 65 

Guards, as, 11, 58 

Gun, kind to use 65 

Haphazards, 42 

Haphazard, crime of breeding 42 

Haphazard, the proudced, .... 17 

Hearing, 11 

Hens, lessons from, 40, 42 

Hospital, 61 

Hot foods, 24 

Hunters, 10, 58 

Hunting when soft, 58 

Importing 21 

Intelligence, (See brains.) 

Intensifying faults, 39 

Invalid persons, profit, 42, 58 

Investment, as, 13 

Kenneling, 46, 59 

Kennels, cleaning 61, 62, 63 

Kinds, three, 14 

Lady's companion, 9 

Large specimens, 31 



Light eaters, 10, 23 

Line breeding, 39, 40,42 

Lion hunting, 57 

Litters, number composing,. . 33, 35 
Litters, number desired in, ... . 35 

Loafers, breaking, 54 

Luchorhea, 33 

Mange, 71 

Mating for convenience, . . . 16, 17, 38 

Mating young to old . . . .15, 16, 38 

Mating, object in, 38 

Medicine, giving, 65 

Meat, raw, 45 

Midlings, 24 

Mother, foster, 35 36, 43 

Mother loss of, 48 

Mother, shelf for, 37, 49 

Mother's condition affects 

Pups, 45 

Mothers encouraging fights, ... 49 

Mothers good, 35, 49 

Name, the, how derived, 9 

Neck, long arched, 65 

New blood, 39 

Nose, the 10 

Not eating, 25 

Novice breeders, i9, 39 

Nursing vs dosing, 65 

Object in breeding, 38 

Obstacles in breeding, 

One-man-dog 13, 21, 54 

Ordering, how to, 22 

Origin, when, where and by 

whom, 9 

Orphans, 48 

Otter hound, the 9 

Overshot, 48 

Pepper, use of, . .23 25, 26, 46, 91 
Pepper, not for puppies, ... .26, 46 

Pleasure in, 15, 16, 51 

Pneumonia, 68 

Pneumonia, preventing,. ... .62, 63 

Poaching, first used for, 9 

Pointing quail, 11, 56 

Police dogs, as, 11 

Popularity, 13, 15 

Poultry, acquainting with, .... 58 

Poultryman's aid, 11 

Poultry killing, 58 

Potatoes, feeding, 23 

Prepotency of sire, 38, 40 

Present dogs high class, 39 

Printing, good 88 

Profits in, . . 32 

Punishing, 28, 51 

Puppies, dead at birth,. .34, 35, 44 
Puppies, number in litters, 33, 35 
Puppies raising, 

29, 31, 34, 35, 38 43, 48 

Puppies, retaining good ones, 43, 84 
Puppies, teaching to lead, .... 53 

Puppies, selecting, 35, 43, 44 

Puppies, white on, 43 

Puppies, young, regulating 

bowels, 36, 37, 45 



Quail pointing, 11, 56 

Quality and utility ones, (See Show 

and Utility) 
Quality and utility, breeding 

of 40, 41 

Quiet ones, game 50, 51 

Rabies, 73 

Raising puppies, 37 

Ranch, uses on, 11 

Ratters, as, 11 

Real sires few, 27, 38 

Rearing on people, 55 

Receiving, 21 

Recreation from handling, ... 15, 42 

Rejecting on a.-rival, 21, 22 

Reputation as breeder, (See breed- 
er s reputation.) 

Retriever, as, 11, 53, 54, 55 

Reward of breeder, 15, 42 

Rolled oats, 24, 46, 91 

Running away from home, .... 54 

Running rabbits and deer, .... 56 

Scale o; points, 76 

Selecting puppies, 35, 43, 44 

Selling, 18, 84 

Sex, controlling, -. . 33 

Sex to buy 

Services, one or two, 33, 34 

Shade, 62 

Shipping, 85 

Show and utility class, 16, 40, 88, 92 

Shooting over, 55 

Showing, 78 

Showing continuously, 30 

Show type, 15, 78 

Sires, real ones, 27, 38 

Skull, narrow, 75 

Sleeping quarters, dry ; 59 

Slow maturers, 46 

Soup, sour to bitches, 46 

Standard, the 76 

Standard, correcting to,.... 38, 39 

Stock drivers, 11, 58, 92 

Stomach, care of 25 

Street, training for, t>4 

Stripping, 28, 81 

Stud, age for use, 29 

Stud, controlling, 27, 28, 29 

Stud, free from worms, 30 

Stud, general management, 

27, 28, 29. 30 



Stud, will injure youngsters, 27, 28 

Stud, selection of 27, 32, 43 

Stud, punishing, 28, 51 

Stud, puppies for fees, 30 

Stud, will be boss, 27 

Stud, value of pedigree,. .27, 29, 38 
Students of human nature,. .10, 53 
Sulphur,... 25, 70 

Table, feeding from, 25 

Talking to 54 

Teaching different languages,.. 56 

Teeth, 48 

Terrier quality,. . . 28, 31, 51, 49, 75 

Three kinds, 15 

Toppers, breeding, 15, 16 

Toy, treating as, 23, 80 

Top not yet reached, 41 

Trailing, 10 

Trailing, not giving tongue, ... 9 

Training, 29, 48, 51 

Training for street, 54 

Training puppies, 48, 53 

Traits, 

Trimming, 28, 81 

Trotters, lesson from, 20, 39 

Usages, varied, 42 

Undershot, 48 

Values of, 20 

Varmint killers, 11 

Vegetables, ceding, 91 

Vessels, feed and water, 25 

War, uses in 11 

Washing 21, 55 

Water, drinking, 25 

Water vessels, 25 

Waterside terrier, first called. . 9 

Weaning puppies, 49 

Weight of growing puppies, ... 46 

Western bred ones, 41 

Whelping quarters, 35, 36, 37 

White bread, 25, 92 

White on puppies, 43 

Worker, a 40, 41 

Working dogs need food, 25 

Worming puppies, 48, 49 

Worms, frceiig f om, 

25.. Z6, 4o, 49, 69 

Wounds, 73 



Advertising Section 




"// its a Bettis Ariedale, it is all right." 1 

The Home of the Bettis Strain 
of Airedales 



Bred for years as Hunters, Companions, Guards and 1 

Winners. Combining extreme Intelligence and Quality. 

I 

i 

Puppies and grown stock from educated and winning parents | 
usually for sale. Prices reasonable. 

In making inquiry, we will thank you to say for what pur- 
pose the dog is to be used. We will please you or frankly 
say we are unable to supply. 



HIGH CLASS STUD DOGS AT MODERATE FEES 

HY-BORN KENNELS 

2227 White Avenue, - Fresno, Californis. 
Cable address: "Bettis." 



The name of 



CihiMapii®ifii 



E®yaJ 



Is known wherever the Airedale is known. 



As a winner, sire of Champions and Winners, and having 

his blood appear in most of the best, he is unique. 

As the sire of dams of Toppers he has surpassed them all. 

A dog of wonderful constitution, as frisky as a puppy and 
and leaves behind him in England puppies that will go to 
the front. 

A sire that gets dark eyes, splendid ears, hard coats, 
most beautiful expression, and size, with Terrier Quality. 
Has done more to narrow the skulls than any other Aire- 
dale. 

Fee, for approved bitches - $40.00 

A few select bitches from a distance of one thousand 
miles, $25.00 

Bitches must be prepaid and draft must accompany them 
in all cases. - 

MY-IOEIM EEMMELS 

2227 WHITE AVENUE, FRESNO, CALIFORNIA 



minimi iliiiliiiiinniili 



GLOVER'S ! 

Imperial Dog Remedies 




The Pioneer American Dcg Medicines 

The result of 35 year's experience in the treatment cf 
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COMPLETE LIST 



Distemper Remedy $1.00 Condition Pills $0.50 

Mange Remedy 50 Liver Pills 50 

Canker Wash 50 Comp. Sulphur Pills 50 

Blood Purifier 50 Worm Capsules 50 

Tonic 50 Tape Worm Capsules 50 

Fit Remedy 50 Diarrhoea Remedy 50 

Cough Mixture 50 Liniment 50 

Eye Lotion 50 Sore Foot Remedy 50 

Black Tongue Remedy 50 Kennel and Stable Soap 25 

Sold by Druggists and Sporting Gccds Dealers 

REFUSE WORTHLESS SUBSTITUTES 



Book on "Dog Diseases and How to Feed" Free en 
Application to 

H. CLAY GLOVER, V. S. 

(Veterinarian to the Westminster Kennel Club for 25 years.) 
1 1 8 West 3 1 st Street, New York City. 



s 



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Are known the world over for their nutritive quali- 
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We recently had two bitches with young litters, 
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some of Spratt's Orphan Puppy Food to the mothers, 
morning and evening for a few days and the trouble 
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Hy-Born Kennels, Fresno, Cal. 



Below is a partial list of Dog Foods manufactured by 
SPRATT'S PATENT: 



SPRATT'S 



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SPRATT'S PATENT, LTD. 

PACIFIC COAST BRANCH, 60 FEDERAL STREET, 
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IT IS OUR BUSINESS TO SAVE VALUABLE DOGS 
BY PREVENTION AS WELL AS CURE. 




I 



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Have stood the test of many thousand users all over 
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Price Postpaid 

Ross' Mange Pills .50 

Ross' "Two in One" for Black Tongue, bottle . . $1.25 

Ross' Germ Lotion .65 

Ross' "Dead Quick" Vermifuge Capsules .50 

Ross' Puppy Vermifuge Capsules .50 

Ross' Eye Lotion .50 

Ross' Laxative Tablets .50 

Ross' Diarrhea Tablets .50 

Ross' Distemper Pills .50 

Ross' Condition Pills .50 

Ross' Antiseptic Dog Soap .25 

Ross' "Dead Quick" Flea Soap .30 

Ross' Combination Mange Remedy, per bottle .... .75 

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ROSS MEDICINE CO. 

NORFOLK, VIRGINIA 




V * 












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& c ° " ° 




